Sunday, September 29, 2013

Exploring the West Side of Mallorca

I decided to explore the west side of the island, knowing that it had more mountains. Also, after reading the write-ups on Valldemossa and Soler, I was determined more than ever to check out the so much talked about Spanish towns.

I picked up my car rental in Cala D’or and headed off to the main highway. The sun was up and I already felt the intense heat coming my way. It’s been a while since I’ve driven a car. Last time was Newfoundland escapade. It was a little bit scary for me, knowing Spanish drivers can be really crazy. I wondered if that explains the chaotic driving of us Filipinos. Maybe.

I had to drive through Palma de Mallorca, the main city, in order to get through to the West. It was the fastest and most practical. The map I had wasn’t detailed and I didn’t have internet. I got lost, as expected. The way around the highways there can be a little bit confusing. I took the long way, driving through the side roads instead of the main highway.

I couldn’t remember where I was then, but I recall just suddenly deciding to stop and pull over. Somewhere in the Serra de Tramuntena, a hidden curb, I decided to sleep for a while. The heat was taking me down and my lack of sleep just got to me. I had to close my eyes. I woke up after an hour, I felt dizzy and just told myself to get moving. There were dark clouds forming and I wasn’t even halfway to Soller. Oh and to make matters worse, I didn’t book any accommodation for the night.

The drive was really stunning. I realized I missed the mountains so much. Beaches are gorgeous but Ive always found peace in heights. There were a few stops along the way, those deserved moment of appreciation. I remember one scene that was so breath taking that I pulled over to take a photo. For some reason it reminded me of Africa and every time I look at it, the initial reaction comes back.

The way through the back roads were a little bit confusing. Driving through small towns meant maneuvering through the small and narrow streets. It was amazing though how some of the places there allowed people to park their cars even though the space was limited already for the passing by traffic. I decided to pass through the Soller tunnel just to make it faster for me. They charged 6 Euros for a car. I think it was a rip off. But then again, I chose that route so I wasn’t supposed to complain. 

Soller

The skies were slowly getting dark when I finally found the way to the town center of Soller. I quickly looked for the way to the hostel just to realize there was no parking available. So I had to go around the town twice just to find a free parking. The slot was a little bit further away but I didn’t mind. I walked for almost half an hour trying to figure out where the hostel was. When I got there, the front desk told me everything was fully booked. They pointed me to another Casa (house) that might offer a bed for the night. It was still looking positive at that point. But when the lady explained to me that she wanted a long-stay client, that was it for me. I had a feeling it was going to be a sleepless night. She recommended another one just a few blocks away. But when I got there, it was the same case, fully booked and nothing else. That was it. A little bit frustrated, I stopped by a dairy shop and had a chat with the friendly lady at the counter. Through my crooked Spanish, I asked if it was possible for me to sleep at the beach or if it was a safe option. She said she’s never thought about it, but should be fine. That was it for me.

After a few minutes, I decided to hang out the plaza. The banderitas were charmingly hanging on and the buzzy place was getting filled up with locals and tourists alike. I lingered for a while and looked for a café with wifi. I tried to look for another option online but the hotels were darn expensive.The whole of the town was very spanish indeed. There were said to be influences of French architecture. The main church loomed over the center of the plaza.

I reluctantly drove my way to the Soller port and found parking. I figured I’d better assess the situation and
check out the sleeping conditions. I walked around towards the left where the cliffs overlooked the lighthouse. There were a few couples taking photos and slowly heading for the coast, trying to get a glimpse of sunset. I passed by and took photos. The beach wasn’t at all what I expected it to be. It was just a small strip surrounded by gravel stones and the whole stretch was lit by the restaurants and bars that filled up majority of the ports alley. The walk along was really lovely and the night chill was just about fine. Soller is a quaint town on the north west coast of the island. I didn't get the vibe that it was a party area, unlike those I've seen on the east side. The crowd seemed to be more of couples and families. Teenagers weren't that much around and the groups were not rowdy at all. I eventually found a small shop where I can by my tin cans of sardines. From there, I walked along the port and found me a spot facing the water, ate my dinner and watched the lighthouse shine over the stillness of the water. 

The night got filled up with  families looking for a hearty meal. There was a pub that had a lady from the US singing some classic songs. I decided to stay there for a while at the back, and listen to her tunes. Didn't bother buying a drink coz I was on the beach and had my own bottle of beer from the dairy store. Cheap. I slowly faded into slumber as I dozed into dreamland. I was glad the beach chairs were not collected that night, which meant I had at least something to lie on. Her Tina Turner songs filled the air.... I woke up around 1 am, shivering from the chilly air. I only had my long scarf with me as cover. Silly. The pub behind was closed already. I heard a guys voice from a few steps away, getting off the phone. He definitely sounded French. I looked over my shoulder and saw him staring. I thought, it was time to move... After a few minutes, i continued my sleep in the car.

Around Serra de Tramuntana

This wide mountain range on the west side of Mallorca was what originally inspired me to explore yet
Lake Cuber
another area of the island. It was just tagged as a Unesco world heritage site back in 2011. Puig Major seemed to beckon, at the height of 1445m but I didn't have enough strength to explore the highest peak. I drove through the different village as I left Soller. Although I didn't get to the north or south of the mountain range, I was able to at least explore the middle, as I traveled from Soller to Valldemossa. 
There were 2 places that really surprised me. The stupendous and unexpected scenery of lakes were something that I wasn't aware of. The reflections were lovely and I'd say almost in comparison with what the other countries had. 

Lake Cuber was the first one I saw as I went around the winding roads away from Soller. The sun was shining beautifully, which allowed the lake to have stunning reflections. I decided to stop and park, walk and have a wonder around. There were a few people in the vicinity with chairs and fishing rods. I found a guy who I could talk to,but he didn't seem to be in the mood to talk to me at all. So I just lingered and watched. After a few minutes, trying to push his button, I asked if it was possible to have a shower. He said No. point taken. 

Gorg Bleu
I moved and found a few rest stops along the way that allowed people to have a barbeque or picnic just close to Gorg Bleu. Apparently, this was also a much talked about area in the west side. The drive was definitely all worth it despite my lack of sleep. The heat and with no shower that morning was getting to be a little bit annoying. I felt sticky. The lakes seemed to call out to me... jumping was the first thing in my mind everytime I saw a body of water. But of course I wasn't allowed to cause any issues to the water whatsoever in case I'm contaminated. Most probably I am anyway haha.  

Valldemossa

 They say you haven't seen Mallorca if you haven't visited the town of Valldemossa. That made me more curious. With that statement I was expecting it to be really touristy though. But I would understand why. 

As I got off the main highway and entered the town, the overlooking view of the whole place was definitely gorgeous. Nestled by the Serra de Tramuntana, there lies an internationally acclaimed "one of the best" Spanish towns of the country. 

However, if you get to read more about the place, I believe the reputation all came about due to the promotion of different significant names of writers and musicians alike.Chopin, the Polish composer, and his lover, stayed there and also the Austrian writer and traveller, Ludwig Salvator gave enough feedback about the island. The Royal Charterhouse boasts of such beauty looming over the town, which was once a Carthusian monastery.

Last night in Mallorca

It was my last day in Mallorca and I decided to hit Palma late at night coz it was an early flight for me to Edinburgh the following morning. 
It was really weird knowing I'd still go to Edinburgh even though I already thought I'd make a pass on Scotland coz I couldn't work out the train booking back in June. I thought, maybe that was the time I was supposed to be there.

I walked along the beach of Palma and found myself a spot. All of the beach chairs were stacked and chained together. I quietly sat on the beach and hid myself behind the stacks. I chose a spot that was just close to a pub with a spanish guy singer performed. Just the same as the night before, I allowed myself to be serenaded by the sounds. The only song that was familiar was La Bamba. 

I allowed my mind to look back at the days that passed by in Mallorca. It was a weird feeling but I knew I was there for a reason. Still I couldn't work out why. Maybe one day it would all be clear. hopefully.

I woke up around 2 am that time and moved to the car coz it was getting cold again. There were still some crowds who lingered, hoping to catch some fish while they drank their beers. I didn't want to hang around anymore. I had to have at least some decent sleep. I had a few hours of shut eye in the car until the alarm went off. 

As early as 6:30 am, I walked to the beach and found the closest public shower. Early morning joggers were passing by and giving me a look. There I was having a shower in my 2-piece swim suit, shampooing my hair... yeah a weird to see. I didn't care. All I knew was, I had to have a shower before I boarded that plane else I'd be so grumpy. 

Around 8 am, I was on the plane bound for Edinburgh. The silhouette of Mallorca slowly faded out of sight.

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