Monday, July 29, 2013

Zakopane, Poland

The ride to Zakopane was a 2-hour journey. By the time we got outside of Krakow and views of the green rolling hills slowly appeared from the distance, I was smiling. I knew I made the right decision. I took a snooze, still feeling the lack of sleep creeping in. The landscapes slowly became dramatic even half an hour before we reached our destination. I couldn’t stop myself from smiling from ear to ear. The last time I’ve seen such beauty was back in Canada. And Zakopane would be the first place for me to hike in my Europe Leg. I was so much looking forward to it.

Zakopane is also located in the Southern part of Poland, at the foot of the well known Tatra mountains. It is also known as the winter capital, a big skiing part of Poland. During the summer months, it turns out to be a best place for mountaineering as well. 
I arrived in Zakopane around 6 pm. Good thing I wrote everything on a paper so I can easily show it to the people at the local bus stop. I said to the driver Jaszcurowka (read as “Yash-cho-roof-ka”), which I earlier researched what the correct pronounciation was. The guy pointed to a nearby shuttle. I got in and told the driver. A couple was in the front row and the girl was smiling at me. Wasn’t sure if she was a tourist or a local. I smiled back and stacked my bag on the second row. The shuttle zipped through town and I looked out the window looking at the different houses and the interesting designs. The driver said it only took 15 minutes, so I diligently timed it on my clock. By the time it counted 15 minutes, I was wondering where the stop was. The girl in the front row looked at me and said that was my stop. I smiled at her and said thank you so much. I quickly rushed down, paid my 3 Zloty’s and crossed the street.
Goodbye Lenin Hostel was the one I chose to stay in for the next 3 days. The description matched the place I wanted to be in… a hostel surrounded with a stream, trees, made out of a logs/wood and earlier, I checked if they had a guitar..and the answer was yes. Oh yes… that was certainly the place I’d like to be.
It was a little bit of a walk up a small angle, but I was puffing already with my backpack. That only confirmed the fact that I wasn’t fit anymore unlike when I was in Canada. I found 2 girls outside the hostel and I said hi. Later on I learned they were from Denmark. The girl who greeted me at the front desk was Amanda, who was from New York, with Asian and Polish blood, studied French in Paris and now studying Polish as well as German. I was really impressed. The owner of the hostel was Stan, a Polish guy soon to be married. He was really fit, a big mountaineer himself, he’s walked all of the hikes around the Zakopane region.
Amanda showed me to my room and I was glad to have a lower bunk bed. I wasn’t supposed to tell Mr.G that I finally decided to go to Zakopane, I was thinking of just sending a postcard as a surprise. But my excitement got a better of me, so decided to send a message and let them know that I was already in Zakopane. After checking in, I immediately borrowed the guitar, went over the window avoiding the other people in the hostel, and found me a wooden bench staring at the trees around. I missed my guitar, I missed music, I missed the serenity that I was having at that very moment… I realized I was more of a nature person that the architecture/history bound spirit. Although, I do admit that the history of a place does interest me a lot too, gives me more of an insight to explaining a country’s culture and locals’ personality.
As soon as I was settled in, I talked to Amanda and discussed my hiking options for the following day. I wanted to force a short hike that evening but my body was so tired with lack of sleep and I’ve learned my lesson never to do strenuous activities if body says no. I checked the weather forecast for the next 2 days just to find the thunderstorm icon staring back at me. However, Amanda and I were still feeling positive. She recommended Morsie Oko to me, which she hiked the day before, and said it was stunning. So I decided yup, that was my destination for the next day.
I had a quick shower and settled in my bed calling it an early night to be recharged enough. Mel arrived later that night, the first Kiwi I’ve met on the Europe leg. She was working in Edinburgh, Scotland before and now traveling around and planning to work for 2 weeks in Krakow. She was the chirpy and vibrant personality, and greeted us saying “Hi Roomies”. I knew that was it was going to be easy to get along with her.
The rest of the people in the hostel prepared dinner and I was stopping myself from cooking my 1-minute noodles too lazy to get up. But after a few minutes trying to sleep through my grumbling tummy, I gave in to the hunger. I got out of the room and found Amanda cooking her vegetarian dinner. She offered me some of her food but I was too shy to accept. I quickly cooked my noodles and socialized a little bit with the group. I guess the good thing about hostels like that, the atmosphere is homey, people are forced to mingle and everyone seems to be nice. I ate as quick as I could and quietly left the lounge and called it a night.

My last day in Krakow

I woke up around 7:30, a little bit woozy. Jacs woke up earlier than me, all prepped up after a quick shower. I packed up my stuff and was happy to be checking out of that hostel and particularly, that room. 

We had our breakfast at the hostel, which was cheap as, having a buffet for only 2 Euros. I took the advantage that you can even request for an omelet. A lady from Canada joined us too, she’s been traveling by herself around Poland. I learned that she booked herself in a dorm… part of me wanted to warn her but of course I wasn’t sure who her roomies were. The hostel was still quiet in the early hours of the morning. I checked out and left my backpack whilst we explored and did our errands for the day. 

The only thing I liked about the hostel, well besides the breakfast, was its proximity to the train and bus station. After a 5-7 minute walk, Jacs and I were taking care of our itineraries. She booked her train to Prague and I sorted out my train from Krakow to Vienna. After which, we headed to the bus station to check the schedules of the Zakopane trips. Seeing that it was every half an hour, I didn’t see it a problem for me. I told Jacs I wanted to take the 3 pm bus though. So that was my deadline to be heading back to the bus station. 

We checked our bearings on the map and I told her I wanted to check out the Jewish community first. She wasn’t fussy at all coz she still had 4 more days in Krakow, so she just tagged along, happy to have company exploring the town.
Kazimierz holds a lot of history since the 14th century, when majority of the people who occupied the community were Jewish, remaining there until the Second world war. It can easily be reached via Stradomska Street, from the old town of Krakow. I learned that in 1993, Steven Spielberg shot majority of the scenes of his movie "Schindler's List" in Kazimierz. This gave world wide attention to the said community, thus bringing a huge in flux of tourists from around the world.

We walked the cobbled streets of Kazimierz and went inside a few synagogues. Some people find it weird when I say I love walking through graveyards. But Jacs was so cool with us hanging around the Jewish cemetery for half an hour. There were group of Jewish kids who were with their school teacher, told of the history and the background of the surrounding community. Jacs and I did our own thing with our photography. We tried to decipher how people could even recognize their families’ graves coz the tombstones were designed different from the usual ones. There were no traces of flowers but only the abundance of stones on each grave. The walls that dictated the perimeter seemed to have been designed with respects for the dead, or I was thinking it might have contained the ashes of kids because of the palms etched. After some time, we strolled along the other somewhat hidden streets of the community till we decided to take a break and buy ourselves a cold fruity shakes. I wrote on my postcards while Jacs checked her facebook. 

While drinking our yummy shakes, a few familiar faces passed by. One of the more sensible Aussie guy with
his white hair and cool shades was strolling along the alley, exploring the place. I told him “good on you”. He explained that the past few nights of drinking was bugging his body and he felt bad just breezing through Krakow without even knowing the history of the place. We agreed and told him to keep it up. After some time, the Brazilian boys passed by, not feeling as hang over as the previous day. Because of the nights’ dramatic events though, they missed their morning trip to Auschwitz. Good though that the company said they could still get the 1 pm tour.

After filling up my postcards, we headed down to the Wawel castle. The colourful tors were stunning, I just couldn’t get enough of taking photos of the top. The place was packed by the time we arrived. I decided to go up the bell tower, as recommended by Mr.G. Jacs opted out and said she’s wait for me under the tree whilst I went up. I quickly bought my ticket and walked up the steep and tight staircase of the tower. The wood seemed to still be in tact through the years. I reached the highest bell and looked out the fenced window to get a top view of Krakow. The four slanting wood that supported the top most edifice looked like a dragons face. 

By the time I got down, the heat was already intense. I found Jacs waiting under the tree beside the lody stand. And that goes without saying that we ended up getting ourselves a yummy lody for the afternoon before continuing on. 

It was already 2:30 pm by the time we walked around the walls. I quickly looked for a post office and sent over my stuff. I didn’t get to explore more and go down to Wawel’s premises were the line was a trailing bunch of people. I knew Mr.G recommended me to go there, but I didn’t want to get a late bus either to Zakopane. So we quickly rushed off to the hostel, had our farewell drink and I collected my bags. Jacs was the first person ever I’ve met in a hostel who helped me get my pack on. I thanks her, hugged her goodbye and rushed off to the bus station. 

I caught the 4 pm bus to Zakopane. I didn’t know what to expect still, though I’ve checked out the photos before deciding to go south. I was supposed to stay in Krakow for 4-5 days, but at the last minute I decided the mountains was something I really needed at that point.

Wieliczka Salt Mine, Poland

We arrived in Krakow from the Auschwitz tour earlier than expected. So I decided to rush back to the hostel and quickly check in, collect my bag and get my stuff sorted with the hope that I get a lower bunk bed. The aussie guys were already up to their drinking spree at 3:30 in the afternoon. The Perth boy said yes and I asked if they had a full on night. Turned out they didn’t get to join pub crawl, instead, just ended up getting drunk in the hostel. 

I quickly rushed off to the 12-bed dorm and got the last lower bunk available. That’s when I met Jaclyn from Australia who’s been working in Scotland but taking her time now to travel around Europe with the hope her visa gets prolonged. There were also 2 young boys from Brazil, Mauricio & well I forgot the other guys name. They were sulking in their beds, struggling through a big hangover from the pub crawl. Well, I was still glad to know that they were interested to go check out what the city had to offer and not wasting their time on drinking. The boys were going to the 3:45 salt mine tour as well, which made Jaclyn decide to join us too.
We went down and I introduced Jaclyn to her fellow Aussies. And that’s when I learned what happened to them the night before. Stuff I’d rather not discuss on this blog. I just rolled my eyes and thought, “geez, that’s a different level of fun.” I was so glad I said no to their prodding invitation to join the pub crawl.We all got on the bus around 3:45. The Aussie boys were also part of the Salt Mine tour, all of them with their shades on, covering their bloodshot hangover eyes.

Wieliczka is located in the southern part of Poland, a 45-minute ride for us from Krakow. It was built in the 13th century and considered as one of the oldest salt mines still in operation. In 1978, the Salt Mine was one of the few places listed as part of the first 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It also has the title of “The underground cathedral/church of Poland”. Pope John Paul II visited it a couple of times. 

We walked down the steps and I followed the guide as I asked a few questions. According to him, the vastness of the mine is not open to the public, but only to scientists/geologists alone. The tour only showed 1% of the whole thing. As I thought, he also confirmed that this was once part of PANGAEA, the one combined continent of the world. History also explains that salt was a symbol of one’s status, once used as the method of bargaining. 

It was a little bit cold through the passageways. We started walking through the wooden crevices of the mine
until we got to the salt corridors. I was tempted to lick the walls, but decided not to. Instead, I just ran my fingers through and tasted it. The formations were amazing most especially the statues that the workers shaped out of salt. It seemed that there was a small village down the mines, that’s what the guide said. 

When we got to the biggest church in the mine, my jaw dropped. It was marvelously designed with chandeliers and the statues were solid and beautifully carved out of salt. I opted to walk down the stairs away from the group. I allowed my hand to move down the handle and was awed by the elegance of the design. The guide was scolding me coz I was so slow, but I just laid my eyes on the walls and noticed that even the chandelier seemed to have been made of rock salt. He said they did allow weddings down in that church. 

During the trip, we met a guy from Norway by the name of Urune (not sure if I spelt it right). He’s been traveling for 3 weeks already and exploring the different sites in Europe. There was another young French guy who started talking to me and explaining a few things about the church. He was a little bit shy but was nice enough to talk to me. I’m glad my Calais experienced hasn’t jaded me that bad against French people.
We all got back to the city around 7 pm. As we got off the bus I was surprised when the French guy gave me a small piece of paper which said “Open”. Then he told me to read it once he was gone. I just said thank you and Jaclyn was looking at me with a teasing smile. I opened the paper and there were all of his information, emails, fb, skype… I guess that meant he wanted to be in contact. I blushed and Jacs teased me more. 

Jacs, Urune and I decided to grab a Lody (ice cream) at the square. I chose to sit right below the monument in the middle. There we watched people in their daily routines, as well tourists trying to get a clear shot of the square. Obviously we were photo bombs, most probably included in everyone’s photos that evening. Well, we were happily licking our ice creams and just chilling. There were heaps of flower stalls that day, and a few selling small trinkets. A girl slowly took her guitar out and was preparing herself for some busking tunes. It was crazy busy around and I liked the vibe. We watched parents look after their kids as they scrambled going up the monument. The sun was going down and its last few minutes of sunshine slowly lit the lower edges of the arches. So we decided to take some photos of the lamps as the foreground of the last shimmer of the day’s sun. 

We had to say goodbye to Urune coz it was free dinner for us again. We knew he wanted to hang out and share a few beers, but Jacs and I wanted to maximize the free dinner. They exchanged details and we went on our way. I was just right in time to have my name listed. 

The dinner was really good and it seemed to always have a balance of veggies, carbo and meat/protein. I
had my second serving, I know..embarassing for a girl. We joined a German guy, who silently sitting in the corner table. We just decided to keep him company and gave him no choice. Later on, the Brazilian boys joined in and introduced themselves to the German dude.

After half an hour, the Brazilian boys were asking us to join them for the pub crawl. It was a champagne night and there were some girls who were dressed up, super high heels and intense make ups (Jacs said it’s called Bogan look). It was amazing to watch girls on a trip to be so prepared for night outs. We said no nicely to the boys and said we were going to have a quiet night. 

After dinner, Jacs and I decided to have our free vodka shots and have a beer at the patio. Once in a while the Aussie guys would join our table and have their smoke break from the champagne thingie, chit chatting us and asking what our plans were for the night. They were so cheeky with their comments. I didn’t bother to answer anymore. 

After our beer, Jacs and I called it a night and settled in our dorm. We agreed to wake up early the following morning to explore more of the city. At around 4 am we woke up to a big commotion in the room. We found Mauricio on the floor just pleading for an extra pillow. Apparently the front desk dude gave away his bed, which explained why there was a girl in his bed. I told the staff to give him a bed even in another dorm, but he didn’t give into my request. I ended up giving my duvet to Mauricio, feeling bad that he was curled up on the floor and just wanting to sleep, obviously intoxicated with the night’s pub crawl as well. The staff came back and realized that there was 1 extra bed but wasn’t prepared after the previous occupant. So Mauricio happily crawled up the bunk and settled in. The staff came back giving everyone a free vodka voucher as his way of apology. The boys were happy but I wasn’t. I told Mauricio he should have asked for a discount. Who cares about vodka anyway. Nobody listened. Oh well. 

At around 5:30 someone came in, the group of English teenagers came back from an extension of their pub crawl saga, pissed off because they had a fight with an Irish guy. So on and on he went. And he was just beside my bunk. Sigh. I tried to close my eyes and drown the stories away.

Auschwitz-Birkenau NAZI Concentration Camps

I woke up early the following day around 7 am and had to check out from the 6-bed dorm. I quickly ran to pl. Matejki where the Cracow city tour bus was waiting for an 8 am departure.

I was lucky enough to get the last seat on the bus, made me feel sorry though for the guy who was smoking coz he was there earlier than me but was advised to get the next tour later in the afternoon. I quietly sat behind the bus looking forward to the tour. I’ve heard before that it was depressing and morbid, but it was something that I knew I should be checking out whilst in Poland.

Auschwitz and Birkenau were the largest NAZI concentration camps during world war II. The location was very convenient for them, with the train tracks, river and valleys around. Auschwitz I was the base camp and Auschwitz II-Birkenau was the extermination camp which was said to be the "final solution of the jewish question in Europe", read as "the holocaust of Jewish people". Between 1942-1944, trains were sent over to these camps, containing all of the types of people the Germans wanted to annihilate. It was in 1945 the Soviet troops liberated Auschwitz, and thus freedom slowly crept in back to the systems of the abused.

When we arrived at the camp, the group was divided to different languages and assigned our respective guides. A listening device and earphone was provided, which enabled everyone to hear the guide tuned in to the right frequency. It was a clever idea, that way, guides didn’t need to shout and also, even if someone wanders around, they’d still hear part of the history/information. 

I joined a group with the guide named Anna. She was a petite woman with blond hair, wearing a white top and beige skirt, nude stockings and her comfy heels. I was wondering how she could bear it through the day in the stockings coz that day, it was scorching hot when we started the tour.

We started the tour at the gate of Auschwitz. It had a welcoming sign that read “Arbeit Macht Frei”, translating to “Work makes one free”. Apparently, the camp was advertised as a door to opportunities, offering jobs to the jews, gypsies & anyone who wanted to earn a living, start afresh and make something out of their skills. That pretty much explained the massive influx of people from all over via the train system.

Anna explained that majority of the people who came were Jews from almost everywhere, gypsies, homeless and other immigrants. The selection process started upon their arrival, men/boys were separated from the women/girls. A doctor identified which one was physically capable to do the work. And anyone who he deemed weak was killed just several minutes after. Pregnant women and even infants, were all killed.

Part of the road still had the original stones, but of course, it was preserved enough to serve as a museum of death, a living proof of the evil that happened. The different buildings in the camp exhibited the various materials that were kept after the war. Blown up photos of the different facial expressions greeted all of us as we entered the rooms. Eyes can say it all… and it read FEAR all over. Anna would usually say “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is the biggest graveyard in the world”. I noticed a sadness in her face. I wanted to ask how long she’s done the tour guide job, but just kept it to myself.

The sleeping quarters looked like a sty which was supposed to be for animals, instead, loads of humans inhabited these quarters. Exhibitions of shoes, bags, combs… everything these families took with them which was supposed to be part of the new life they were looking forward to… everything that was important to them, were taken away, collected and sold. Some of these were stored, which served its purpose as part of the Auschwitz museum.

What made me cringe was the display of hair. After people were killed in the gas chamber, the hairs were shaved off the heads and used to make a few materials. I didn’t even know you can do that but apparently, in those days, the Germans thought how to maximize their resources. I stared at the hair collection through the glass mirror, thinking about their pain.

One of the buildings had a massive display of photos… face, name and everyone in the same striped uniform… they were all doomed…… doomed…. And I believe even those who survived…. Went through the same doom. As Anna said, if anyone wanted to be free back then, the only way out was to kill themselves. Chances of escaping was so slim, and even though if 1 person was successful enough, that meant the immediate death of 10 people in the camp.

The surrounding perimeter of Auschwitz had green trees, hiding the tall watch out posts and signs that carried
the symbol of a skull with the sign “STOJ!”, i.e. HALT! I found it so ironic that the beautiful landscape around was all a cover up for the revolting and disgusting evilness. I couldn’t even think how those soldiers and officers could be so cruel enough to do such things.

Gas chambers, shooting, death of starvation & weakness… these were not just the cause of death for the prisoners. Anna explained to us that some of them were used as experiments and injected with different diseases.

After an hour and a half, we went back to the bus, bound for the next camp, Birkenau. When the Germans
were slowly losing the war, they tried to burn and destroy evidences of their cruelty. Birkenau’s ruins were a witness to all of their efforts. We walked through the gates and found rumbles, edifices of what was once a camp, actually constructed by the prisoners themselves, to hold more people arriving via train. In the middle of the camp was the railway track. I stared at it and noticed stones on the side of the single train cabin left on the track. I quickly realized that it was a Jewish practice, as showing respect for the dead. I looked, waited for the group to move away, and picked a rock and placed it on the side, whispering my respects to all of the victims. From a distance a flag that carried the Star of David, danced along with the wind, as a group of teenagers surrounded their teacher while listening to the history of the camp. They chose a distant spot, far away from the crowd, which I thought was the best way to have a more intimate discussion with the young ones, make them appreciate history and learn from it as much as they can.
We passed by the grave of ashes, that just looked like a marsh, but held so much pain & sufferings. I didn’t walk close by, but just stared at the healthy soil around. There were a few memorials around, a reminder that read “For Ever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity, where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe. Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945”. I placed a stone on the monument and paid my respects.

We finished the tour with Anna walking us to the nearby barb-wired fence. Going through the tour made me feel so much hatred and anger towards these people. The main colonel went through the trial in Nuremberg, and he was eventually killed in Auschwitz. But majority of the soldiers who performed the dirty deeds were not caught nor punished for such cruelness. Anna though was kind enough to finish the tour on a much lighter note. And even though I’m writing this after a while, I still remember her words and even the expression in her eyes. She held her hands together and said “Ladies & gentlemen, I believe that this is something that everyone should see. You need to understand that to visit these camps is to remind each one what humanity can do when filled with so much hatred.” Everyone nodded and said thank you to her.

I walked silently back to the bus, although heavy hearted after everything I’ve seen, I knew that what Anna said is true… Everyone should see it. At that point, I was so glad to have passed by Krakow.

Made me think back to Philippine history. During World War II, my home country was invaded by the Japanese, and just the same, they were evil enough to kill and torture so many of my countrymen and women. They were also known to be sadists and rapists. And back then during the days when I was studying our history, there came a time that I hated each Japanese I’d come across. So much… I knew being told off by my sister.

I wonder if humanity is learning…. Reading the news now adays doesn’t seem to be proving it otherwise.

Krakow, Poland

Initially, I was planning to go for Turkey after Prague. But I didn't plan enough to be flying to Turkey and I was wanting to go up the mountains and be far away from the massive tourist crowds. A few days before I left for Poland, I got to chat with Greg & Helen, my good friends in New Zealand. Greg was born in Poland though and his family migrated to NZ when he was still young. So with their suggestion about places in Poland, I decided last minute to go on a side trip and explore.

Krakow is the second largest city in Poland and was once the capital back in 1038. It is said to be in the center of continental Europe and was also known to be a bustling trade center back in the days. It was interesting when I got reading about the etymology of the name Krakow. Apparently it originated from the name Krak, a legendary Polish prince. In pre-Slavic meaning, it reads as "judge's staff". However, based on other historians claims, they say it just means "oak".

There's a lot of history that goes around the Wawel Castle, the beautiful structure that they say Krak built above a cave where the dragon Smok Wawelski lived. It was really interesting staring at the castle and imagining the legend and all of what they were wearing centuries ago. I seem to be doing that a lot on the Europe trip, with all of the history and architecture that goes around the cities and towns I've been passing through.

I chose to stay at Greg's hostel (yeah Mr.G i thought it but fitting to), right along Florianska, conveniently located in town and close to the train and bus station. The moment I walked along the street, I then felt a little bit away from the craze that I experienced in Prague, and I was liking it. The sun was a little bit hot as I got up the flight of stairs to reception.

There was a blond Polish girl and guy who received me. First time that I had to be seated and walked through all of the notes and reminders, before I could be checked in. What did they emphasize? the Pub crawls. okay, at that point i was thinking... oh no....... I can see what's going to happen here. Along with that was a voucher for a welcome vodka shot.

I booked myself in a 6-bed dorm and was happy that I had it all to myself. I initially just booked 1 night coz I was still contemplating on going to Zakopane the following day. But then I decided to extend for another night, just to be told that it'll be full so I had to move to the 12-bed dorm. I said okay to that.

It was around almost 7 pm when I was settled in. They didn't have laundry so I decided to do a little bit of washing and just hang out by the window. The hostel offered free dinner everyday, so I signed up and waited till it was 7:30. I lined up and started chatting with the first person queued up. I did forget her name, but I do remember that she was from the US and now working in the special education sector in Beijing. We ended up chatting and I eventually joined her table for dinner. The serving was really good and we enjoyed the sausage. I even got my second serving.

By the time we were done, we moved to the terrace. She had her smokes and I had my beer, so we just relaxed for a while. I made sure I booked myself for all of the tours the following day, not wanting to miss the highlights.

The table across us was filled up with 5 boys, not as rowdy, but one guy shouted hello when she passed by. She went back to the table and asked if he was talking to her. After a few seconds, she was invited over to that table...and that goes without saying that I had joined in... As much as I didn't want to, part of me didn't want to be a party spoiler either. So I gave in. Apparently, it was a table of Aussie guys, and of course the table filled up with booze was proof enough. They didn't seem to be in their 20's nor 30's..more of i'd say mid 30's to 40's, except for the youngest looking who was 28. They were all planning to join the pub crawl and they tried to convince me to join in but I just had to say no. I didn't want to waste the following day going through the tours with a massive headache and hangover. I didn't regret it at all.

I said goodbye to the group and to the girl and called it a night. I left the windows open to dry up my clothes and tried to sleep through the night despite the noisy couple fighting outside, girl yelling at boy <sound of slapping>, and it goes over and over again....at 2 am. Definitely tourists coz I understood the whole conversation.

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Backlog on the blog

I know I've got a massive backlog but i'll be working on this whilst on my 9-hour train ride from Zagreb to Sarajevo. So soon enough, i'd be able to write up and reminisce the past days and weeks... Poland > Vienna > Slovenia. it's gonna be a long catchup on this blog...but hopefully i'd be able to remember everything :)

so yeah, i'm getting back on the road tomorrow.... hopefully energized enough. The heat in slovenia has been intense. After a few hours outside, I usually head back to the hostel and have a cold shower. It's really exhausting. But finally today, I decided to walk up the steep path going to the castle. Had to keep the blood pumpin'. 

soon. updates.

Sunday, July 21, 2013

of age, girls, boys, hormones, booze & whatever

this is something I've been wanting to write about just to get off my chest.

-- > age. 
for the past few days, for some reason, kids (i.e., teenagers) have been asking me about my age. I don't know why, but it seems to get triggered by the fact that I've been traveling for 4 months now. and the moment they learn my age, they just get put off. What's with this attitude? Someone even said to me, "You're the oldest backpacker I've met!" Obviously that person hasn't traveled that much (well he was just 20 years old). Ignorance, arrogance.... 

--> Girls, Boys, Hormones
okay, so in a certain hostel, I've bumped into group of girls and been trying to be chirpy and been saying hi, but yeah, they smile timidly and that's about it no eye contact. but when I was eating with the 2 boys in the hostel who they fancied, they suddenly start a conversation, ask the age blah blah. My roomie was right, it's like if someone has a dick, then they become these nice girls.

--> Booze
in a certain hostel, every night has been polluted by loud, drunk, inconsiderate british, scottish and english teenagers. met 2 girls from denmark (16 & 17 years old), faking that they were drunk, acting as if they were cool. explain?

whatever! maybe i'm getting old. yeah, maybe i've been there,done that....whatever....

FED UP!

Friday, July 19, 2013

My train hopping to Poland

When I planned my trip to Poland, I wasn't really sure if I should have been taking the night train, seeing it as the only option. But then with a lot of help with Mr.G I was able to sort things out quickly. 

So the route was, take the train to Ostrava (the third largest city in Czech and close to the Polish border) and quickly buy a ticket for Poland. From there catch a connection  to Katowice (pronounced Katowittz), a city in Southern Poland, and then from there catch a train to Krakow. I was so used to taking direct connections so I was a little bit nervous about the whole connection thing but most of all because the minutes in between were tight. It was in Katowice when I had to run to catch the train, and when I say run.. it meant RUN JOWE.. RUN!! (up the stairs to platform 4). 

The views were lovely as we got out of Prague. The landscapes were so colourful and the small villages we passed by were charming. It was really spacious when I was on the train to Ostrava. I did regret an extra 2 Euros for seat reservation. But I guess my last experience with my train ride from Hamburg to Berlin put me off and the last thing I wanted was to be sitting on the floor. 

The train bound for Katowice was half an hour late which was good coz I was able to catch my breath and put down my bag. By the time I got to my assigned cabin, there were already 3 people sitting comfortably speaking in a language I couldn't quite work out. Apparently they were from Norway. At first I was hating the thought of traveling all the way in a cabin with people who wouldn't talk to you, so I just kept quiet and tried to shut off the idea. Good thing they can speak English and we got talking. 

I forgot their names, but it was a couple and a girl who were in Czech to spread the Bible in a small village out of Ostrava. They were part of a Christian group from Norway and just completed their 2 week mission. Of course, it goes without saying that majority of the conversation was around the bible, faith and belief. 

Later on, a Polish guy joined us in the cabin. He spoke fluent English and was on his way to Warsaw. And being an atheist, he was more targeted than me. So again, the conversation was around Christianity and why he chose to go the other way. I just smiled and listened for a while. 

By the time the train stopped at Katowice, I immediately said my goodbyes and looked for the Peron (platform) for Krakow.

Praha (Prague)

I’ve heard so much about Prague since I was a teenager. And I guess at some point, it was blowing my mind that I was on my way to such place of what they say enchantment and architectural beauty. In saying that, my expectations were really high. 

Charles bridge from Bridge Legii
Praha, it’s native name, originated from the old Slavic word “Praga” meaning “ford” and is the sixth most visited city in Europe. It seems to have been given the nickname of “City of Spires” which could be clearly seen once you’ve gone up the Astronomical Clock tower. Due to the fact that it didn’t suffer that much damage during world war II, the different architectures are still unharmed and pristine in its form. In saying that, the different collections would be Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neo-Renassiance and Gothic, Cubist, Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau and ultra-modern. 

Prague is the historical capital of Bohemia proper and was once the center of the Holy Roman Empire. The town itself is composed of the Old Town (Stare Mesto) and the New Town (Nove Mesto). In 1939, Germany tried to invade Prague and declared some portions of it as part of its regime. But later on, there was a reprisal and I believe it’s worth mentioning about the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich, one of the most powerful men in Nazi Germany. This was accomplished by the Czech heroes Jozef Gabcik and Jan Kubis. 

I started off with……. Getting off at the wrong train station, somewhere in the outskirts of the main city. Duh. So that’s why my map wasn’t making sense at all. And I felt bad for getting a little bit moody to a guy when he couldn’t even figure out where we were on the map. I walked back to the train station just to be told I had to get another train to Praha hl.n. Oops. Guilty as charged.

The train was busy, it seemed everyone was going somewhere in the middle of the day. Later on I realized, I was arriving to Prague on a long weekend. That explained it. 

The hostel (Equity Point Prague) was centrally located, just a 5-minute walk to the beautiful National theatre building. All of the 8 and 12-bed dorms were fully booked so earlier on I had to book the 4-bed dorm. I didn’t regret it. Despite the increase in price, the space was more than enough for 4 people with big bags and I was a little bit away from the annoying teenager dorms. 

The wifi wasn’t working in the rooms… it was only available in 1 area in particular… the lounge, pretty bad in the kitchen and no reception at all even along the corridors. You could actually see disappointment on the faces of everyone. With my head a little bit woozy from the Berlin drinking session and waking up early, I quietly went back to the room and slept through the whole afternoon and evening. It was only me and a guy who I barely even saw, but definitely, I felt his presence when he came back in late and snored through the night. At around 11:30 pm, I woke up to the fire alarm and an announcement asking all guests to evacuate the building. Oh great, my headache just got worse. I went down in a foul mood, thinking it could only be 2 things. (1) someone was toasting and forgot about it or (2) someone was smoking in the room. By the time I got to the ground floor, the front desk guy was shouting at the teenagers “Please! No Smoking in the rooms!”. I rolled my eyes. GRRRR. What the!

The following day I was feeling a little bit more energized although still not 100%. I told myself, that’s why I don’t like drinking anymore coz at this age, it takes 2 days for me to recover. There was free breakfast included in the price, which was good.

I decided to extend another day, knowing that I’ve just slept through my first day. I didn’t want to just explore the city in 1 day, so I talked to the front desk and was happy when they said I can still get the same room and the same bed. 

I set foot after settling things I first had to look for a launderette. At that point, I was already carrying with me 1-week worth of dirty clothes and I my OCD side was bugging me already. However, I couldn’t find it so I then decided to go ahead to Bridge Legii. I stood there for a while, munching my morning fruits, enjoying the view of Charles Bridge. The theatre building was looking amazing. A main river flowed through the city, adding up to the charming vibe. It was still early on in the morning and not much of the crowds have woken up to swarm the streets. I was glad. I decided to explore the Petrin Hill located in the Lesser Town, then marked on my map a few suggested places where I can get off the beaten track “for a while”. 

Along the way, I walked the cobbled streets of Ujezd and enjoyed looking at the shops and small café scene. At the base of Petrin, I decided to look for lunch and craved for fish. It’s been a while since I’ve tried a country’s specialty so I stopped by a cute restaurant and ordered Sea Bream, fried fish with thyme herbs on top. Super duper yum!  I was so happy. (Luka Lu restaurant along Ujezd) The interior was designed with Czech theme and the ceiling had some ornaments hanging, giving it a different effect.

After getting energized, I decided to look for the said hidden postcard in this hidden coffee shop behind a tobacco store. This was listed on the USE-it Prague Map and recommended by the locals. The shop was so cute and the postcards were quirky.  So I picked up a few again and had a chat with the guy. That was when I learned that it was a national holiday which explained why the streets were all so filled up. Oobra Trafika Café is just located along Ujezd.

Across the street was the Santo Nino church so I paid a visit. It was simple, with a Neo-Gothic style. There was a service when I came in so I didn’t bother taking photos at all. Which made me just stare at the other people who were just walking along the side of the church snapping their cameras during the mass. I shook my head and walked away.

At that point, right across the church was a big sign saying “Halo-Halo”. My eyes almost popped out as I quickly crossed the street. Ate Myra was walking around when I walked in. She and her partner put up the business and is the only Filipino store in the whole of Prague (Pinoy Taste of Asia). I was beaming with joy and stayed there for almost an hour. She’s on her 8th month of pregnancy and expecting a boy. I ordered halo-halo and happily finished it through while having a chat with the couple. Her husband knew a few Filipino words which was good. I promised I’d pass by again. I bought a few snacks for me to have for my exploring and went off.

I walked back to the base of Petrin Hill and decided not to get on the queue for the gondola ride. The walk was tiring but I know it was because I was fit anymore. So that was a good thing to have the heart pumping again. 

I got to the top and had a view of the town, it was amazing to stare at the overlooking sight of the city. Definitely the rising towers and spires added up to the charm, plus of course, the known Prague castle added the enchantment to it all. Up the hill were a few of the visited sights such as the Mirror Labyrinth, Petrin lookout tower and the funicular. It was really packed, so I didn’t bother to stay any longer. 

I followed the USE-it map and eventually found myself in the street less crowded of the craze along Novy Svet just around the corner of Hradcanske namesti. It was so cute, and indeed, it still had the middle-age feel to it. The houses were a little bit crooked and the lamps were hanging quietly waiting for the arrival of night till they get lit up. I lingered for a while and admired the adorned windows and doors, trying to imagine how it was centuries ago. 

After a while, I walked back and crossed to explore the deer moat, the walks behind the castle. I knew it wouldn’t be as packed, which was good. Definitely the use-it map was right, if you want to avoid the crowd, walk that path. The smell of trees was lovely, as I rested my tired feet for a while and chose a quiet area. The place was guarded as expected. After a few minutes, I walked on to the castle and checked out the gothic church inside. I honestly didn’t look around as much. I was so turned off with the massive crowd and noisy dogs and teenagers. It was crazy. So crazy. I found a bench just beside the second entrance of the castle. I think it took half an hour there, just staring at the crowd and thinking, it all looked so familiar. I remember that time when I was in Rio when the Christ the Redeemer was so packed that I couldn’t appreciate its splendor. 

I slowly walked back to the hostel after that, knowing my energy levels were going down. I didn’t bother for dinner, instead just ate some of the Belgian chocolates Mich gave me back in Brussels. 

By the time I got back, I took a hot shower and snuggled in as early as 8 pm. Later on the rest of the new roomies arrived. 1 from Argentina and a brother & sister from South Korea. I said my hi’s and hello’s and dozed back to sleep.

Astronomical Clock
By my 3rd day in Prague, I took it easy and decided to check the old town. I knew there were so many buildings I should check out before leaving, so went straight to the churches, square and monuments (powder tower which was once where they sold gun powder, town square, basically all around the old town). I decided to go up the astronomical clock tower to get a 360 view of the city. The red roofs were adorable with the backdrop of the different architectural sites. 

At 4 pm, the square was packed. I got down the clock building to find it with everyone looking up at the clock. I was being nosy coz it wasn’t the case earlier. Apparently, by the hour, the windows open and some puppets would play a tune. By the time the puppets were done, the whole crowd clapped in unison. Hilarious!

I decided to look for a church and hear mass coz I knew I wouldn’t be able to hear the Sunday service coz I’d be checking out and leaving Prague. Along the way I bumped into a white-robed gentleman…a priest of course. So I tapped his shoulder and asked if he knew any church. He looked at me and said he wasn’t from Prague. Toink. Apparently he was just visiting Prague but originally from Telousse, France. But he was so kind enough to walk me to Charles Bridge and point me to the direction where there would be a 5 pm mass. It was hilarious when we were walking together towards the bridge. Everyone was looking at us. His flaring robe was just so unique amongst the tourist crowds. 

I arrived at the same Church of the day before. The mass was in Spanish but it was okay. I did pick up a few words here and there. Again, tourists were just around taking photos. I just couldn’t be bothered to be annoyed. I just found it disrespectful. 

After mass, I decided to drop by the Pinoy shop and say goodbye to Ate Myra. Unfortunately, it was her rest day and only Kuya was there. I ended up ordering Halo-Halo again. Haha. Addicted. I bought a few pad thai’s and also 2 filo canned meals. Enough to see me through my journey the following day. 

Timo & guitarlele
Eating through my first few scoops of halo-halo, a guy entered the shop and looked around. I smiled and welcomed him in, feeling as if I was part of the staff. He was looking for vinegar and soy sauce. He picked up a few Filo stuff. We ended up chatting….. and that was the start of it. And I was able to convince him to try the Halo-Halo too. 

Timo was on school holiday vacation, being a music teacher back in Germany. He’s been teaching guitar and songwriting. Then he got out his Guitalele, which looked like a ukulele but was a guitar. Awesome!

Kuya was closing up the shop by the time we played a few songs. Timo and I decided to continue the jam session somewhere, so we bid Kuya goodbye and went on our way. 

After a few blocks, we found a spot right beside the canal and started playing some music. Timo played me a lot of his songs, both in German and English. He told me a lot about his family, life, music, songs and relationships. We watched the boats and swans wade through the canal until the sun lazily settled under the horizon and the night lights were glowing through the city. He knew I wanted to wait for sunset so I can take some night shots. It was getting dark by the time we decided to leave our spot and grab a beer. It must have been around 10 pm already when we stopped by McDonalds. I found it weird having to pay just to use the Mcdo restroom, but I didn’t complain. Timo had his dinner, I was still full with the halo-halo. We then had a beer after that and talked until it was past midnight I think. I wasn’t even looking at the clock. The discussions just flowed through. 

At around 1 am, I said my goodbye and he wanted to walk me back to my hostel. I said no, and insisted to just be left somewhere before Charles Bridge, which was a little bit further from where we were. My intentions were to take some night shots, and didn’t want him to wait while I did that. So he said goodbye to me at the end of Charles Bridge, and I was well on my way to do my photography. 

The streets were crazy, filled with drunk teenagers and midnight lovers of all ages. Despite of that, I appreciated Prague more that day…seeing it in a less-busy and crowded aspect, although I had to wait late at night just to feel the city more. 

I got back to the hostel, feeling a little bit hungry, so decided to have the stuff I bought from the Pinoy store. I had an early morning shower then quietly slept through the wee hours of the morning. 

The following day, I was headed to Krakow, Poland.

Monday, July 15, 2013

Catchin' up with Gitta

Gitta was the girl I met back in Vancouver. 21st of March, 2013, I arrived in Vancouver at St.Claire’s hostel. And that night was when I met the bubbly Gitta. We didn’t talk much that night. But the following days was when we built the friendship we had. We did some walks, had breakfast at a local place and watched the sunset overlooking the stretch of Vancouver and the Grouse mountain in the background. I headed to Alaska after that and she headed to Vancouver Island. We then met up again in Seattle, the night before she headed back to Germany. 

And that night, I was catching up with her, in her own city, Berlin Germany. I found it amazing.

She was working at the bar Aufsturz, located right in front of the Oranienburger Train station and between Meinenger and Generator Hostels. She was just getting off her shift which was 11am-6pm. We hugged each other when she walked back in the pub. She was with her friend Maria, who she met a few years ago through a common friend. We chatted outside the pub and I had 2 strong Belgian beer, with 8.1% alcohol. Talk about starting the night bang-on. It was so great to see her again and she was still her usual self. She was saying she was slowly forgetting her English, but I still found it intact. 

We continued on walking the streets as Maria took out her bottle of wine. Just the same in Belgium, it apparently is typical to be walking the streets with a bottle of booze. And that night, I was feeling local getting a sip, as we took turns with the bottle. Berlin was slowly turning on the lights and the night was still young. A lot of tourists and locals alike were starting to be out and about on a Wednesday night. 

Maria and I were feeling famished so we stopped for a while. She had a what seemed to be a kebab. Gitta and I had Asian dinner. I was sooo hungry, remembering that my last meal was actually breakfast. Crazy. 

Eventually we got to the Doors pub, a local pub that they hang out at on a Wednesday night. Gitta’s friends were there and Maria’s boyfriend Bjorn was already sitting comfortably leaning by the door. IT was so cute to see friends hanging out like that, having a common day to meet up. As they said, just like the TV series “How I met your Mother”. 

Bjorn was really inquisitive about a lot of stuff which I really liked. Despite the alcohol in our systems that night, we were actually having a good conversation which was what I wanted to have as being part of a local group. He was really passionate for people to see Berlin more than just the touristy places, which I understood. But I guess so much more because, I believe there’s this perception or I guess, history based thought of Berlin >> yeah, the wall, Hitler, the unfathomable destruction. And coming from the young ones, as I was surrounded by a bunch, to hear a teenager have that passion was impressive. He wanted people to see past the monuments and the history. He explained that though the years, it seemed like Berlin was losing its identity and that tourism was sort of damaging a lot of things. It’s quite difficult too, but I’d say tourism will always be part of the economical climb of a country, although Germany in itself has more to offer even if you read all about the outstanding inventions and innovations. Still, I understood where he was coming from.

We ended up moving to a different location. Sitting outside a local liquor shop, how more local can it get. Bjorn bought us Berliner beer and we continued on through the night.. drinking. I was having fun, at least we weren’t getting drunk in a pub, instead, doing it just the same way they’d do it. We met 2 guys from Ireland and a girl from Bavaria. The guys have been living in Berlin for a few months already, one was a journalist.
Around 2 am, Gitta checked her train connections and had to call it a night. I said the same as I had a bus to catch to Praha (Prague). I hugged Maria and the guys goodbye. Thanking them so much for the night. Bjorn said “you’re always welcome here”. 

As we walked to the tram point, I hugged Gitta goodbye and well, we knew we’d still see each other someday. 

Feeling a little bit tipsy, I got on the tram and found my way to Warschaur Strasse. I felt so local and used to the streets already. Now, booze always makes me hungry, for some reason. I stopped by a small kebab station and got me some wrap to eat along the way. 

Crossing the Oberbraum bridge, a lot of teenagers, mostly tourists, were already wasted and drunk. I was munching on my wrap, just watching them struggle through the streets. 

I got to the hostel and yup, it was packed… and I was the last one in…. I tried to be as quiet as a mouse… the snoozed off. That was 3 am. 

The following day was an early one for me as I had to pack up. A 7 am shower woke me up for good, but I was already feeling weak. Oh yeah, old age was getting to me… 2 continuous nights of drinking and going out. 

At 8 am I decided to go out with the guitar and sing along the streets. Greeting everyone who passed by good morning, I was smiling. I could actually see myself coming back to Berlin.I checked out and got myself to Hauptbahnhof for my bus to Prague.

Back on the road bound for Czech Republic… my eyes were struggling through a little bit of a hangover, but I was happy with fond memories of Berlin.

Berlin, Berlin

I arrived in Berlin at the Ostrabanhof Train station just near the East Side. The sun was up and it was surprisingly feeling more summer in Berlin than in Hamburg. 

Oberbaun Bridge
The hostel was JetPak Alternative, along the street Oblitresausse, one of the funky neighborhoods and on the East Side. The place itself did live up to the reviews I’ve read beforehand. I did understand then why there were a lot of young ones who liked the venue. It was an old section of a building just beside a park. The area or even the place itself may look dodgy but I guess it was more homey than the Meininger and Generator Hostels. The rooms were located at the back of the hostel, and you’d need to go through the gothic-style lounge and through a stretch of plants and then get to the rooms. One of the things I really liked about the place though I’m sure it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, would be the service. The guys and girls were really friendly. I was so happy to see a guitar in the house, so I ended up borrowing it for a wee while. It was funny coz Gunu, the girl at the desk, was taking a video. She was really friendly and chatty. Very lovely to talk to.
It was around 4 pm when I got checked in, along with a girl from Sweden by the name of Sarah. Lookin’ big with her dreads, we didn’t exchange much conversation-wise coz she wanted to go to sleep. So I let her be, settled my stuff and went off to explore.
East Berlin Wall
The location of the hostel was a little bit far from the center, in saying that, it was a little bit of a walk to the nearest Subway or Underground train station. However, the walk itself made me smile coz it made me feel more local passing through the neighborhood. Surprisingly, Berlin was way cheaper than Hamburg and so much so to Belgium. I ended up having a cheap lunch at a Vietnamese fastfood place. And also picked me up a few fruits for my exploration.

I wasn’t really sure what to expect from Berlin. All I knew was the history was massive and museums were all around. Berlin, being the capital of Germany, is also its largest city and second most populous. Located at the northeastern region of Germany, it’s mostly has a flat topography and along the River Spree, which now runs through what was once part of a big glacier. Of course, Berlin has revolved around the inevitable talk in history about World War II and the well-known East & West Berlin Wall. The Western Allies (US/UK/France) formed West Berlin and the Soviet Sector formed East Berlin. In 1961, the construction of a wall came into place more from the initiative of the East. And to take it to the next level, Checkpoint Charlie was introduced. It was only in 1989 that the wall was demolished and the reunification happened in 1990. During those days, I can still remember watching the news.. that was when the whole world was on a standstill… with the fear of another war or with the hope that unity would finally come into play for Berlin. And at the moment when the first few rubles fell to the ground and peace slowly found its way, I think there must have been a spontaneous sigh of relief for everyone, not just Germans but also for the nations around. 

I passed by the lovely Oberbaum Bridge and walked to the East Berlin Wall, admiring the different murals, drawings and expressions. I couldn’t help but be emotional, imagining what it must have been like years ago when checkpoints and soldiers were all around…trying to think how much the sense of liberation could have been back in those days, when freedom was long last part of their daily lives. 

Check Point Charlie as drawn on the wall
The East Side Gallery covered a long stretch of it, starting from the Bridge and until you get to the stoplight to Obhf train station. People around lazed around beside the river and some teenagers were playing volleyball whilst I looked around. 

I got on the train and got off the wrong station. Instead of getting off at Friedrichstrasse, I got off the Berlin Hbf (tier) or also known as Hauptbahnhof, central and I’d say the best train station I’ve seen so far in my travels. With different levels, it covered both the Subway and Intercity tracks, with different shops and food stalls to offer local and tourists alike. 

I decided to go around and explore the nearby monuments, walking along the river and watching the sailboats pass by as I stared at the different structures. It was rather a different scene for me, as it was bigger, less people were on bikes as compared to Belgium and Hamburg. But still, the presence of that mode of transportation still existed. 

I passed through a museum and found myself staring at the Reichstag Building also known as Bundestag, which is the traditional seat of the German Parliament. The original structure was damaged during World War II, but then, it was redesigned by British architect Norman Foster, to have a glass dome on top and available for the public to view for free. I didn’t linger too long around the area coz I had myself booked for the following day to go up the dome. 

Stanley
Passing through, I found myself at the Brandenburg Tor (Gate) which seems to have gone a long way through Berlin and Germany’s history. I was amazed by the structure, and also noticed that it is on some of the coins too. It was hilarious how there were so many operandus.

Walking through, I heard someone busking, but couldn’t see who the guy was because of the massive crowd in front of me. Stanley (as I found out his name later on), came from Africa, has now been living in Germany as a singer-songwriter but also as an African dance teacher. He’s been busking for 2 years now, but also trying to get his music out there. His voice sort of reminded me of Tracy Chapman, and he did resemble her a bit. The crowd was really onto him as he sang “Afrika”. He then invited some people to join him or even get on stage and perform. After a few teenagers had their turn, I got on the microphone and played for 20 minutes. It was fun, and he did a freestyle for Tracy Chapman too. I took a few photos of him and got his calling card. That was a fun eventful afternoon as my first day in Berlin.

I was supposed to pass by the Holocaust Memorial but decided to head back to the hostel since I was a little bit tired. 

I then met Michael, from New York, and was staying in Berlin for almost a week then. He’s been just chilling after Uni, and soon to move to Seattle and get on a full time job. We were both in the same dorm, so we ended up chatting a while. For some reason we got to the hostel events of the past few days, about the guys and all of the crazy things they’ve been doing. Of course I wouldn’t want to include it in this post. 
Dar Edelweiss

Michael apparently said that a few of the guys went to the nearby pub where a music thing was happening. At first I wasn’t interested as I was already comfortably tucked In bed, but by 12:30 pm, I decided to join him and check out the scene. Might as well since it was just close by. 

The Dar Edelweiss was just a 7-minute walk from the hostel and right along Oblitrestrasse, and inside the park. During the day it’s a typical restaurant but at night it looks like the usual pub/night scene. We got there and bumped into drunk teenagers who were most probably tourists having a good time. The place itself was a little bit dark, hazy with smoke but packed. 

We found ourselves a little spot at the corner of the bar and Michael bought the booze. The night was a Jazz jam session, composed of different musicians from around the globe. There was a guy on double bass, piano, drums, bongo, flute, saxophone.. it was awesome. I found myself swinging to the music. 

Through the noise, I found out that Michael was actually into cryptics and sort of security side of I.T. We then ended up with a few discussions on the technicalities. Yeah, imagine huh? That discussion in a pub. Amazing how we got to hear ourselves through that conversation. 

Later in the night a few singers got on stage, a Spanish girl, 2 jamaicans and a girl from Massachusetts who actually topped it all. Her voice was superbly jazzy….and her stage presence was awesome. 

By the time we had our 2nd round of booze, it was already 2:30 am and I told Michael we had to head back to the hostel. I also noticed he was already struggling with his second bottle, or maybe I was just drinking too fast, but definitely I told him I didn’t have the strength to drag him back to the hostel if he was already tipsy. He had a lot of time spent already in berlin, and I didn’t want to waste my 2nd and last day with a hangover anyway. He was really sweet and said it was okay. 

When we got out of the pub, some scenes in the park just blew my mind out. It was quite embarrassing how I reacted, coz it seemed Michael was just cool about it. I’ve only seen such in movies, but my eyes couldn’t grasp the sight in front of me, a girl and a boy doing it just out in the park, and what made it worse was that they could be seen by anyone who’d get out of the pub. WAAHHH. Okay…. That was just too much for me.
Bundestag dome
We got back to the hostel hoping that the lights were still on, not wanting to be the ones sneaking in and making some noise in the room. Good thing was that the 2 guys from Japan were still up and awake, booking their next trip. The girl Sarah came in a little bit later as well. So by the time lights were off, everyone was happily done with their day and on the same slumber state. 

I woke up around 9 am, had a shower and headed off for breakfast. The Japanese guys were checking out and Michael and I finished our breakfast. I quickly had a chat with Patrick, who I met on my trip in Newfoundland, Canada. Apparently he was back in Berlin already just 8 days ago. He asked how long I was staying in Berlin, and I said only for 2 days. I appreciated him contacting me and offering me a place to stay next time. He was really sweet giving me some tips around the city too. It would have been nice to have caught up with him but our schedule for the day didn’t work out. But we agreed, next time, we’d made sure we meet up when I visit Berlin again. 

I also had a quick chat with Laura, who I also met in Newfoundland, in the same hostel where I met Patrick. She also was back in her own city. And so, she offered to have me over in Nuremberg, south Germany. I told her I’d see how I go about Prague, which was my next destination after Berlin.It was a great feeling getting the messages from all of them, it’s a marvelous thing what travel does. 

Michael and I walked towards the end of the bridge. We had to go our own ways, me to the subway him to the underground for the Olympic park.

composers memorial
I was just right in time for the viewing at Bundestag, 12:45. The dome up the building has been a state of art, composed of different mirrors in the middle, which actually uses the suns light and reflect it into the dome itself, sort of energy saving functionality. Pathways goes around the globe eventually takes the viewer to the top. The whole structure gives you the opportunity to see the different sites from a certain point. What makes it really good is, it’s for free , you just need to make an online booking/reservation for your slot. And it also goes with a narrating device so you’d be able to identify the different monuments from afar, alongside the history as well. This building is the actual German Parliament, which amazed me, the fact that it’s been so open to the public for visitations.

It was actually fashion week, the time I was in Berlin. Just right in front the Brandenburg Tor was a section closed for the Mercedes Benz fashion show. I lingered for a while and watched the local scene and the girls lookin’ glamorous. 

I headed off to the Tiergaten, a long stretch of tree and gardens. Apparently, years ago, this was a local
hunting ground for the administration. But later on, it was transformed to a park instead. In the middle is the monument Seigessaule, standing grand and significant. The walk in the park was lovely, I felt like I was far away from the hustle bustle of the main city. I even had a chance to have a path to myself, listening to the rustle of the leaves, so green and lovely with the sunlight behind the towering trees. I realized I missed the forest walks again. There were a few more monuments, one that stuck to my memory was the one built with the 3 different composers, Beethoven, Haydn and Mozart.I stopped for a while and just stared at the monument. It was just so hot and I was wearing a summer dress. Grrrr. Steaming hot around, I struggled with my few last drops of water before heading back on the streets.
Holocaust Memorial
Around 4 pm I was contemplating if I should go back to the hostel, have a shower and head back to town to meet Gitta. But I thought, it was just too far, so decided to proceed to the Holocaust Memorial. There, I stopped by a postcard shop and sat on one of the blocks of the memorial as I filled up the postcards. 

Around 5 pm I was dead tired and lacking sleep. I then realized, it was just 1 late night for me but I was feeling hammered already. Go figure. Oh hold on, no… I think it’s an age thing. I decided to head to Potsdamer Platz and read on the writings where a few ruins left of the wall stood still. After that I found a quiet spot just beside the flower shop, and slept there, far away from the passing crowds (except for the lift). Around 6:15 pm, I took the train to Oranienburger Train station to meet up Gitta.