Saltburn-By-The-Sea, England

It was time to be enroute again.... as I found my way back to England, my last stop before leaving Europe. I had to organize my China visa and Tibet permit.

I arrived in Saltburn around 4 pm on a Friday afternoon. The skies were a little bit gray. I hoped it wouldn’t rain. The main goal was to surprise Josh and Jade, the couple I met when I joined the Moose tour through the Rockies in Canada. I did mention to Josh before that I planned to visit them at the start of my Europe leg. But because of the technical issues I had with booking my train to Scotland, I had to cancel that plan. Though, when I got to Edinburgh, I decided why not pass by, surprise them and say hi. He always told me before that I’d fall in love with the town. I understood what he meant when I got there.

I passed by Signals Bistro, hoping to see the lovebirds coz that was the family business. But when I couldn’t see a familiar face through the glass windows, I figured, Josh must have planned something special for Jade since it was her 21st birthday. So I went straight down the road to the hotel. Yeah…hotel.

I wasn’t really keen to book a hotel. But because the town didn’t have a hostel, all I had for options were hotels and B&B. For some reason, almost all of the places were busy. I remember emailing a B&B I chose online, just to be told that they were fully booked for the weekend. Good thing I came across a good deal at the Spa hotel. The location seemed nice when I checked out the map online. But when I got there, I was just awed by the scenery. It was right on a hill overlooking the sea. Stunning.

I found it a little bit awkward checking in a hotel with a backpack. I felt out of place. SO MUCH out of place. The place looked prim and proper, and there I was in my hiking boots, heavy backpack and front bag… looking like a hermit/nomad who might not be able to pay the night’s accommodation. But, the staff was friendly, so I was totally fine with it eventually.

the wharf

Having a room to myself in such a cozy setting was Heaven. Pure Heaven. And I told myself, why not…? It wasn’t like I had a choice anyway. But I told myself, It was about time I gave myself a break from the tiring sleeping adventures I’ve had on the road. I deserved a cozy bed for 2 nights, for a change. 

The hotel was just a walk down to the beach. The waves of the ocean was very relaxing to watch as I walked down. I was smiling all the way, loving the view. The long wharf that extended through the beach was a hangout for lovers, families but most especially fishermen who saw it as a place to catch up with friends over a few beers. The blue skies slowly came out when I started snapping photos, which gave me the best opportunity to capture the beauty of the place. Saltburn by the Sea is one of the seaside resorts within the Redcar and Cleveland area up North Yorkshire of England. It wasn't really far away from Edinburgh if you look at the map.

From the distance were gigantic wind turbines found on the shores of the town Redcar. Dark storm clouds formed as I watched the sun set from a distance. I later learned that a lot of residents were complaining about it, just the same in Wellington. But, I found it amazing, renewable energy. It might have done damage during the building phase, but in the long run, I see that renewable energy would always benefit citizens.

 As I walked on the wharf, I bumped into 3 elderly women visiting Saltburn for the weekend. It seemed to me they were having a girls weekend out, giggling all the way as they walked towards the end of the wharf, keeping their eyes on a young couple. It was hilarious hearing their crazy retorts, and one of the ladies told me to try the Fish and Chips at the harbour because the chips were awesome..but not just that...because the boy was gorgeous... <laugh> they were really cute. I can imagine myself growing old and still saying such cheeky retorts.

I met a gentleman fishing with 2 boys. I've always enjoyed talking to local fishermen, asking them what the usual catch of the day would be and how often they'd hang out. Apparently, he was teaching them how to fish. He was a cyclist, and considering to travel from north to south in New Zealand...with him and just his bike. Well, he wouldn't be the first to do that. It was something typical. When it started to drizzle I had to find shelter and leave them behind. I still intended to linger around so I could capture night shots of the wharf. I heard it was a sight to see.

The night scene was awesome, with the wharf getting lighted up. The effect was stunning with the water underneath. I took a photo quickly and had to walk back to the hotel before I froze to death. I wasn't equipped with the proper cold weather, although September wasn't really a month I'd think would require winter attire.

I met up with Josh and Jade the following day. I was glad to be given the opportunity to meet up with them even just for an hour. That's the thing when surprising people. When not fully planned, you might be the one for a surprise. It just so happened that Josh bought Jade tickets for a vacation in Spain, and they were to fly on that Saturday. I was still glad to see them though. It was a great feeling meeting up with them after last seeing them in Canada. I've been following their updates on facebook and was so happy for Josh pursuing his music dream. awesome stuff. I also met his twin sister Lydia, who was manning the kitchen that day. They had me over for dinner too, and I also checked out the bar upstairs which Josh designed and made himself. It was great seeing them in their lovely hometown.

the Rosslyn Chapel

The Rosslyn Chapel wasn't really part of the agenda. But a gypsy girl I met at the square mentioned it to me and said that its a must to see, so my curiosity got the better of me and there I was on my last day, at the Rosslyn chapel. I later found out that this was one of the scenes in the movie Da Vinci Code. And so that explained the massive crowd when I got there. Not what I was expecting. What I thought it would be was a peaceful place where I could have my silence. It was far away from that.

It was late afternoon when I got there. Silly me took the wrong bus from Edinburgh. I got there in the end, Roslin, Midlothian Scotland, in the outskirts of Edinburgh. The entrance fee was a little bit expensive but I guess the Chapel was in dire need of funds due to the crumbling walls and ceilings. I've learned that ever since the location was included in the movie, it suddenly became a hit tourist destination, with visits increasing from 400,000+ to almost a million each year. Good for business. 

The Rosslyn Chapel was technically part of the Sinclair Family, a well known and noble family that was a member of the Norman knights in Northern France, thus the influence of medieval architecture. What caught my interest was the alleged involvement of Freemasonry and the Knights Templar around the vicinity. However, I believe these were all speculations. Although, there were stones with etched swords that seemed to be those of the Templar Knights. 

The whole inner architecture of the place was rather stunning, in the sense of its uniqueness. I've never seen such intricate masonry in a church before. I was so used to seeing saints, cherubims, devils, jesus, mary, carved on the walls. But this time around there was a mix of Green men (more pagan), plants, musical boxes, animals and so much more. The external architecture actually reminded me of the temple Burubudor in Indonesia. Photos though were not permitted inside. 

A tall Scottish guy with glasses (who I found charming and cute) passionately talked about the history of the chapel. I asked if any more excavations occurred in the past century. He said that efforts were started but because of the fragile architecture, they had to stop and use scanners/xrays instead. They found there were metallic figures that seemed to be knights buried underneath.

Late lunch was beckoning, so I went out and found a hidden place away from the chapel's cafe far away from the people. All because I was a little bit embarrassed with the food I brought with me, big slices of chicken drumsticks from a cheap dairy shop in Edinburgh. I sat on the ground at the edge of a field and stared out while happily munching my chicken thighs. The view was lovely, rolling hills of greenery, covered by healthy green trees swaying with the wind. It was starting to be chilly and the scent of incoming rain was filling the air. I quickly finished lunch and went back for my last few moments in the Chapel. 

There was a new bus group that arrived. A swarm of elderly people stormed in the place and that's when I noticed Margaret, the lady I met earlier on the Highlands tour. She was enjoying the surrounds. I quickly sat with her, seemed that fast paced walking could get her breathless quickly. She's been joining group tours for the past few days, which was the best approach for her traveling around. After a few minutes, I left her to explore the chapel and said my goodbyes.

I found a bench outside, under a big old tree. There I filled up my postcards to families and friends. The guy who gave a talk earlier passed by so we had a chat. I found out that he was living in Spain, teaching English. He was such  personable guy and easy to talk to. As I write this, I realize I've forgotten this name. 

I finished filling up the postcards and made a final loop around the Chapel before I headed off. The Roslin town was quaint and charming. I found the bus stop back to town and got back to my hostel. It was time to pack up again.

a Bus Trip Around

Highlands

I decided to sign up for an organized tour rather than renting a car and go on a road trip to the Highlands. Lochness has always been part of my dream but after hearing a few unsatisfied feedbacks that the place is overrated, I decided to go for Loch Lomond and Stirling Castle instead. 

I was glad the bus stop was just along haymarket station, only a few blocks from the hostel. I quickly grabbed food for the morning and waited at the stop. Gray skies loomed over Edinburgh and the morning chill made me regret not taking a jacket.  The tour bus was packed, with only 1 free seat remaining. I've never been a fan of big groups but that time, I just couldn't be bothered to research further. I found a spot right at the end of the bus, where the noisy ones would usually sit. But the crowd was matured and the couples looked like retired citizens just enjoying their time exploring Scotland. 

I didn't get on the ferry cruise when we got at Loch Lomond. Instead, I chose to walk around the park that was situated right beside the port. There was a small castle, unnamed, on top of a hill and down along the river way was a small cafe. I bought myself coffee to keep me warm, and I just sat there staring at the Loch. 

So what is a Loch you may ask. It is both an Irish and Scottish Gaelic word for a lake or sea inlet. Loch Lomond is a freshwater loch that crosses the Highland Boundary Fault. It is considered to be the largest by surface area.

view from Stirling Castle

We then moved on to driving through the highlands, one of the places Scotland is known for. It was rather frustrating though not given the chance to walk nor hike up the hills. All I could do (as you can see in the photo), was to try and manage taking shots of the view from my window. Good thing the driver allowed me to seat right in front, where conductors would usually be seated. The landscapes were definitely amazing, but I could imagine how great it would have been if a hike was included. 

The last stop of the day was Stirling Castle, located in the town of Stirling. It is claimed to be one of the most important castles in Scotland's history. It was good that the tour allowed us 2 hours to explore the place. I tagged along with the lady I met on the bus. She was so quiet in the corner that I decided to chat her up. I found out she was a local, traveling around Scotland coz she knew she couldn't do that again. Her husband died and she didn't have kids. Very lovely and soft spoken lady. 

We walked through the castle doors and found our way to the workshop where there was a lady focused on a big tapestry. And that's when I found about the Unicorn Tapestries of the Queen. A guy in his black attire (going back in the days), explained to us the meaning behind the Unicorn story. A hidden code came out of the picture, which apparently was the story of the Passion of Christ. Due to the wars before against the Christians, the Queen had to hide it through the guise of a Unicorn story.

We passed through the King and Queens chambers, made me imagine back in the days when they'd be in their flowing robes and walking through the hallways. I bought some postcards from the souvenir shop and walked along with the lady I met on the bus. I then realized that we've never introduced ourselves. And that's when it sort of gave me goosebumps when I learned her name was Margaret. The name that Anne mentioned to me when she was reading my tarot cards. And I did tell Margaret about it. All she could say was "pure coincidence". We walked in silence, enjoying the afternoon sun. We finished right in time for an ice cream. She bought me a cone and we sat on the edge of the castle overlooking the town of Stirling. We were both smiling.

Hi and Goodbye to Mel

I messaged Will and Mel when I got to Edinburgh, telling them that I just arrived in their top1 place in Europe. Then I got a message from Will that apparently, Mel was back in the zone.

That's when I learned from Mel that it was her last 2 days in Edinburgh. And catching up was a must! It would have been great having Will there too, a Zakopane reunion would have been lovely. 

I went to the place where Mel was working and met her friends. It was her farewell party that night and the plan was to have a bbq somewhere in the park. That was the plan. It sounded like a plan. But we ended up doing something else. All in all though it was so nice seeing her again. We didn't get to talk that much because there were a few more who joined in, the friends she had since she lived in Edinburgh for a year. 

We had some chips with us and a few beers to share around. We made a circle in the park and chatted away through the late afternoon until the sky turned into the lovely color of red, sun setting in the background. A few friends of Mel arrived and I decided to call it a night, passing by a pub to check out the open mic as well. I hugged goodbye to Mel and told her that we'd meet again once I'm back in New Zealand.

Out and About in Edinburgh

I found Edinburgh charming. I've been hearing a lot about the city on numerous occasions. Majority from conversations I've had with Mel and Will who I met in Zakopane, Poland. When I got there, that's when I understood why they loved the place so much. Apparently, Scotts have their own Gaelic language, different from what the Irish. That was one of the things they'd highly emphasize on.... "We are Different!", as if spelling the last word out loud. 

The architecture around, most especially of the Old Town, was amazingly intact. It definitely gave people the feel of transporting back in time. I guess that's always the effect when you walk along cobbled streets and surrounded by gothic-designed buildings. 

I passed by a Catholic church adjacent to the Edinburgh's Castle. I quietly took out the breakfast I bought from a nearby supermarket and munched on it while I watched people pass by. The setting was peaceful. To my upper right was the castle and right in front of me were graveyards. Now, I know it might sound weird. But a few friends of mine are fully aware that I have this weird liking for such places.

My stop in Edinburgh was very relaxing. I took my time walking up the road till I got the castle. It's been said that there were evidences of human settlement on the castle rock that dated back to the Bronze Age. And according to readings, Edinburgh was the first UNESCO City of Literature. Awarded the European Destination of the year in 2012 and also one of the best places to live in the UK, this city has lured and attracted over a million of visitors per year, thus making it the 2nd most popular tourist destination in the UK. 

Just below the Castle is the lovely Prince Street Gardens, ordained with the lovely green trees all around and an ornate fountain surrounded with blooming flowers. The whole park was busy with people resting under the shade, as they licked their ice creams or sipped their afternoon coffee. I lingered for a while and appreciate my own ice cream as I people watched again. Oh yes, I did take my time.

Edinburgh also hosts the well known month of festivals, that being August. That includes the massive Fringe Festival, giving way to all kinds of artists, from comedians, musicians, buskers, street artists and the likes. As I arrived there, I was able to catch a glimpse of the remaining acts around. Each corner in the Old town, just along the main street from the castle, showcased different acts, from jugglers, clowns, solo musicians and comedy acts.

One of the acts I would never forget was of a guy, not dressed as a clown, but was outrageously hilarious in his own way. He was from Argentina and according to his introductions, have been practicing that kind of show for years. It didn't really require him much material. All he did was to cajole people who passed by, using more of his quirky remarks and funny actuations. Some were game enough to allow him make fun of their presence. However, some just couldn't be bothered. The whole crowd laughed and even grandpa's and grandma's enjoyed the show. 

I went back to the hostel and met Arthur, a Kiwi guy who just retired from his job of so many years as an Aircraft worker with Air New Zealand. As always, I quickly get comfortable talking to Kiwis/Maoris. We ended up having a few beers at the pub in front of the hostel, talking about New Zealand but more about flights and the technicalities of being an aircraft worker. There we also met a few locals who were our next door neighbors. We got kicked out when the bartender had to close for the night. I didn't expect an early closing time though in Edinburgh. But we couldn't be bothered to move to another pub. It was another day and so we said our goodbyes and Arthur and I went back to the hostel. I was happy to find my dorm room with only 4 people that night.

Enroute Edinburgh

I took the city bus from the airport knowing that the walk from the stop to the hostel wasn’t that far away. It was a shock to my system when I got out of the airport coming from Spain which was boiling hot and then flying to the chilly land of Edinburgh. I was definitely keen on buying a fleece to keep me warm. My black jacket that I picked up from the hostel in Winnipeg (donated by a previous backpacker) was something I terribly missed. But earlier on when summer arrived in Europe, I decided to donate it somewhere on the road, knowing that someone would eventually make good use of it just the same as I have.

The Hostel at Cliffton Terrace was right bang on in front of the Haymarket station. Just a stone throw away was a pub and a few food establishments. I was received by an American lady at the front desk, smiling cheerfully as she told me about the weather the past few days.. something I usually ask when I arrive. That would usually help me gauge planning for the next few days, or even, my attire.

I found my room, which was a 12-bed dorm. And oh boy, how congested it was. All of the beds were taken except mine, and all of the bags were astray on the floor. I arrived on the fringe of the Fringe Festival, right on time when people were leaving. Just the way I like it.

The toilet and shower was unisex and man, if you’re claustrophobic, better not choose that hostel. It reminded me of the Generator hostel in Hamburg. The space was surely maximized, to the dismay of people who were tall or fat. I couldn’t complain though. It was cheap. That was enough to shut me up. So I quickly took a hot shower and went to bed at 4 pm. I woke up the following day. It was my way of re-energizing after the adventures I had with my road trip in Mallorca.

The story behind me heading to Edinburgh

Scotland has always been in my list of countries to go to in Europe. Even way back when Beth and I backpacked around England, we've always wanted to get to LochNess and explore the cities as well. That never happened. Thus, me adding it to my list on this 1 year of travels. 

So the initial plan last June was to start my Europe trip by taking a train from London to Edinburgh. I tried booking that the night before Alf and I left for Morocco. But for some reason, the website wasn't working and they couldn't process my credit card details. After several trials, I told myself, that's it. I took it as a sign to leave it for a while and decide again once I got back from Morocco. 

Now the thing was, after Morocco and staying over for 2 nights at Alf's place, I had to go to Eastbourne and visit Mum in East Sussex. I didn't bother getting on the net again to check train trips to Edinburgh. From Eastbourne I decided to take the ferry from Dover, cross the English channel, and get to Calais, France. From there, catch the train to Brugge, Belgium. So that's what happened. Scotland eventually fell off the list. 

But then, when I looked for the cheapest flight out of Mallorca, Edinburgh came up again. So, I took that yet as another sign, maybe that was the perfect time for me to be in Scotland. 

So there you go, that was the story behind me suddenly having Scotland back in the picture. But you know, it's not always that everything happens for a reason.

I've not established from my traveling that whatever happens, or how screwed up things can be or vice versa, everything still works out in the end :) It always DOES! :)