Intrepid Day 1 (09-April) - Istanbul - The Meetup

The traffic was a nightmare. I checked my watch almost every minute, hoping a miracle would happen. I hate getting late most especially when it's a first meetup. The cab driver rang the hotel a couple of times, trying to figure out where abouts it was since there were 2 Golden Horn Hotels. I wonder (at that point in time) which one was better.

Canon80D-Blue Mosque

I must have arrived around 10 past 1 in the afternoon. I rushed through the lobby of the hotel and noticed 2 groups, 1 in the dining area (smaller group) and 1 in the sofa area (bigger group). For some reason I thought I was with the bigger group, brain wasn't working at that moment in time.

A guy approached me before I got to the hotel reception. A little bit taller than me and looked really young. He asked me if I was there for the Intrepid trip and if I was from the US. I answered yes and didn't bother answering the US Question, then told him I was late and I that I needed to go the group (pointing at the sofa area). He asked me if I was with the Black Sea and Beyond. I said yes. And that's when I realized I was looking at the wrong side of the hotel. He smiled, took my bag and introduced himself as Suleyman, our tour guide.

I joined the group pretty much embarrassed. Everyone was already there and it seemed like they already started. I sat at the end of the table and looked at the Intrepid bag in front of me. It included a few print outs and also Suleyman's calling card along with a breakdown of the potential weather for the next few days. One thing that I really liked in the bag was a keychain of an evil eye. More of a protection against evil. I quickly attached it to my backpack.

Canon80D-Inside of Suleymaniye Camii (Mosque)

Suleyman came back to the group and continued on with the orientation. It was good that it was a small bunch. Intimate and not too crowded. Just the way I like it. I knew the age range was exactly the one I'd be more comfortable in. It was really good that he organized copies of Turkish words which would be helpful for us to get by. I always believe that it is part of traveling to learn a few local words. I asked if he had a nickname, he said his friends called him Suley. As much as he looked really young, he had a certain level of maturity.. more of an old soul. Yet to be discovered through the trip.

After the orientation, Suley asked us to introduce ourselves to the group and also mention our expectations. Gai was the first one to say Hi to the group. She was traveling with both her daughter Fiona and Gavin, her son-in-law . It made me happy to learn that they were all from Sydney. We just quickly clicked and connected. Gav and Fi just got married 6 months prior to the travel and were still on honeymoon mode. Next were Jason and Maureen who were from the US, they've been dating for over a year already and were on their first overseas trip together. They were really cute together. Then of course, there was me. The solo traveler. I told them that I was originally supposed to go to Cuba but that got cancelled. So yeah, there I was, just a few weeks before the Intrepid trip... I decided to book it in and just go for it. Besides, Turkey was in my original Bucket list. I knew at that point in time, after meeting the group, I was meant to be there.

Canon80D-Zincirli Han

We started our exploration and walked through town. It gave us a good opportunity to bond with each other. We first walked towards the Sultanahment square. I was already so familiar with the area but this time around there were trucks unloading tulips and carpets of it getting laid in front of Hagia Sofia. It was really pretty with the sun out compared to how the surrounds looked the day before. Suley said that by the time we got back to Istanbul, the whole grounds would be filled with tulips.

The hippodrome was another interesting site that we visited, which mainly served as the area for the chariot racing back in the Byzantine time. It was a little bit overwhelming to imagine we were standing on a massive sports arena of horses. Hippo meaning "Horses"and Dromos for "Way", of course in Greek language.

As we all knew, the Blue Mosque was closed so we only stayed for a short while, took photos and also Suley gave us a run through of the history. It was back in Sultan Ahmet I when this amazing architecture was built. Locals would usually call it Sultan Ahmet Camii (Mosque) instead of the blue mosque. The latter being more of a descriptive title because of the blue tiles inside. I was so much looking forward to see those tiles, but I wasn't lucky this time. Opening would be 15th of May. The architecture encompassed the Ottoman time, a mix of Islamic and Christian design (from Hagia Sophia). Still a functioning mosque, I could see a lot of men washing their feet after saying their prayers.

Canon80D-Views from Suleymaniye Camii over the Golden Horn & Bhosporus

We then walked through the Grand Bazaar which was actually different from what I expected. Having been to the Bazaar in Marrakech, Morocco, I was more of picturing a chaotic scene of stalls with people bartering with the storekeeper. But what we saw was a very much organised and pathways to multiple stalls, with bright lights and a lovely clean setup.

We took a turn to a corridor and found ourselves in what's called Zincirli Han. A lovely courtyard, old style, intimate and for me.. stunning. It looked authentic and seemed to have held a lot of history for shop owners. We all went up the steep stairs and took a few photos. It was 2 levels, with the upper floor being home to workshops and other offices.

We then walked further and went through the University sides. The cobbled streets took to another well known spot in Istanbul. Suleymaniye mosque. The architecture was amazing with the domes but moreso, I loved the size and space that the prayer area offered. It had a certain energy that seemed to invite one to kneel down towards Mecca. It was the first mosque I've entered since coming to Istanbul. I used my own scarf as a hijab and took off my shoes. Suley asked us to sit down for a while so he could give us a background of the history. This mosque was designed by the well known Architect Sinan under Suleyman the Magnificent during the Ottoman Reign over Turkey. It had a blended design of Islamic and Byzantine. After taking a few photos, a few volunteers approached us and shared leaflets about Islam and a few more interesting facts about the history and practice. The courtyard outside offered stunning views of the Golden Horn and Bhosporus Strait.

S6shot-No smoking
Corlulu Ali
Pasha Madrasah

We then continue on to the Spice Bazaar. Another must to check out in Istanbul. The colors were stunning through the corridors. Then Suley took us to Corlulu Ali Pasha Madrasah, a very local where people go to have tea and obviously, shisha. It was ironic to see a sign on the wall that said "No Smoking". And of course, I couldn't help but to take a photo of smoke puffing out of these gentlemen with the the no smoking sign in the background. I've tried both before, i.e. shisha and smoking a cigarette. Neither really did any good to my lungs.

After all of the walking, we went back to the hotel to have a quick rest. Fi's back was hurting so they decided to stay in for the night. Mau, Jason, Suley and I went out to a local kebab shop and had a yummy dinner.

The following day was going to be the real start of the adventure. I closed my eyes a little bit cold (heater wasn't working), tired but filled with excitement.

Out and About in Sultanahmet (Old City) - Part 1

S6shot- The domes

I woke up way before the alarm clock. The 6 am wakeup call wasnt required at all. By 5:30 am the first call for prayer blasted from the speakers of the closeby mosque.

I went up to the 5th floor and found a girl gazing out the window at the quaint kitchen of the hotel. I quickly sussed out the rooftop views until I couldnt handle the cold. 

I had a quick chat with the girl and found out they were on their way back home to Germany from Ethiopia  just on a short pit stop in Istanbul. I asked about breakfast and was given a tip about the cute hippie stores around Galata tower. I definitely noted that down.

Reviews suggested to visit Hagia Sofia first thing in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds. Exactly what I planned for...early morning. So I decided to have dinner in close proximity.  I opted for the Turkish style of Continental breakfast.

HISTORY IN A NUTSHELL

Turkeys history is very rich. From Byzantines to Romans then Ottomans which eventually led to the Republic of Turkey. Ok..i think that was too much of a shortcut. What really made an impression to me was Ataturk himself. 

We grew up and got introduced to the terms Anatolia or also known as Asian Minor. Another which was Constantinople, the name of Turkey during times of Constantine the Great. So how are all of these connected? Thats for a separate writeup. 😊

EXPLORING HAGIA SOFIA

S6shot- Virgin Mary with
Child Jesus

I lined up quarter to 9 am. There were already tout groups in the queue. Dark clouds were filling in the sky, I feared the rain but nothing I could do with the weather. I paid the entrance fee and hired an audio guide.

Hagia Sofia means "Holy Wisdom" in Latin but is also now called AyaSofya in Turkish. It was built during 534 AD, as instructed by Emperor Justinian I of the Byzantine empire. It served as a Christian Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Wisdom of God. 

In 1453, when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, AyaSofya was then converted to a mosque under the rule of Mehmed. As with all other churches during the Ottoman rule, a lot of  religious relics were destroyed and a few frescoes covered or were either erased or plastered over. The substantial change was the adding of the 4 minarets. This was kept as a mosque until 1931. By 1935 with the birth of The Republic of Turkey, AyaSofya was converted to a Museum (Müsezi). 

This was said to be the architecture that changed history. I do recall almost the same architecture around East Europe whilst my travels in 2013. Obviously, this served as an inspiration to the Ottomans during their reign of power. 

The structure that stands tall today wasnt the original one. The first simple creation in the 400s BC time was destroyed by a riot, which was once called Great Church. A second one was built but this was destroyed by fire during a revolt. 

By the 500s BC, Emperor Justinian I decided to build a better, bigger and stronger structure. It took years but the magnificence was an image of perfection during that period. Unfortunately earthquakes caused damages and required reconstructions and repair. 

S6shot- Deësis Mosaic
Virgin Mary and John the Baptist asking for
Jesus intercession during Judgement day

It was amazing to know that it was the Armenian architect Trdat, who also designed
the Cathedral of Ani, who was asked to direct the repairs. By the 900s BC, additions to the design are some of which you would now see, i.e. cherubims and Peter and Paul with Virgin Mary with the child Jesus in tne middle. 

The invasion and success of the Ottomans on the 29th of May, 1453 was the death of thousands of innocent people. Unimagineable acts of cruelty occured on the grounds of Hagia Sofia, which was served as their refuge until the Ottoman army barged in to claim their rule.

S6shot- wishing hole

S6shot- The Beautiful door

Before I flew in to Istanbul, it was said on the news that Erdogan recited Islamic prayers at Hagia Sofia much to the dismay of Greece but appraisal of Muslim Turks. My thinking? Why cant they just keep it neutral. If you think about it, the real descendants were not Turks anyway. Instead of fighting why not just keep things peaceful? To this day I still do not understand rage and wars among religions. I think its really a war of "man" and need for control. 

I explored the grounds of this magnificent structure and couldnt help but be humbled by the grandeur of its architecture. It was a shame that half of the main hall was covered due to maintenance. A few stray cats loitered around the grounds. One which caught my eye since it wanted to go up a set of stairs, instead looked up, shrieked to empty space as if it saw a ghost then ran away. Im sure with the history of the place, souls linger these grounds endlessly.

As I approached the West Wing, I finally found the wishing hole. Also known by the different names, but I chose it to be the wishing one. I put my tuumb in and tried as hard as I can to rotate my hand clockwise and complete a turn. I made a wish. They say it can heal illnesses. I touched my heart.

I exited through the Beautiful Door, the only genuine known piece of proof from 2th century BC, from the Hellenestic temple of Tarsus and placed there by Emperor Theophilos. Sheer admiration for the existence of this bronze door.

The Columbus clouds covered Istanbul and rain started pouring. I quickly ran to the souvenir store, kept myself warm and checked their items. I came out with a magnet and 15 postcards. Typical of me. As much as I wanted to get myself coasters, it was just too early to be collecting weight.
___________________________________________________________

I decided to go back to the hotel and change footwear. My worn out Nike sneakers didnt have much traction and I felt my feet slipping from time to time. On the way, I stopped at the corner coffee shop with a view of Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Ironically, I ordered Bhaklava with ice cream despite the freezing weather. My numb fingers trembled as I slowly wrote on the postcards. There was no way I was going to finish all of the ice cream. Eek!!

I knocked at the front door of the Inn hotel and they were surprised I was back early. I pointed at my shoes and quickly ran upstairs. I changed to my sturdy hiking North Face boots which I had with me during Nomad Enroutd in 2013. Wear and tear did not make me doubt its reliability. I had the right ankle support I needed.

On the way down I bumped into the cleaning lady and she gave me a warm smile. I was trying to make a hijab out of my scarf but was doing a bad job with it. She laughed and helped me set it up better around my face. By 1 pm, I was back on my way to Sultanahmet square. Next stop, Basilica Cistern.

My First Night in Istanbul

I went out around sunset time. I could hear prayers from the mosque (camii). Famished and weak, I was craving for proper food. Airplane meals never really gave me comfort.

I walked along Small Ayasofya street and savoured the chill air. The traffic was still

S6shot- Hagia Sofia

chaotic and honking horns still filled the air. I found the closest Restaurant and had early dinner there. I was taken to the rooftop where there were views. The guy asked my background and kissed my hand. Years ago Id be flattered. Now adays those moves just wouldnt work for me. I happily finished my steak in the silence of the setting Istanbul sun. The guy was trying to offer me a massage under the stars. I wondered if that was the typical line if they saw a solo female traveler. I politely smiled and declined. The chill of the night was slowly creeping in. 

S6shot- Arasta Bazaar

I found myself walking through the Arasta Bazaar, a collection of spices, clothing, jewelery and various Turkish items. The stone cobbled alley was adorned with etched stones that ordained the drainage system. Artsy, I must say. 

Towards Sultanahmet square, the towering Blue Mosque towered from a distance. Ive seen a couple of photos online, showcasing the beauty of artistry inside. I walked around the perimeter and observed the crowd. Lots of locals and tourists were admiring the facade as much as I was. The blooming tulips added a stunning contrast to the gray backdrop. 

Unfortunately, the mosque was closed for refurbishing. Yet to be opened on the 15th
of May. Just my luck. Lol. I walked around the washing area instead. Still a functioning mosque, the once constructed Sultan Ahmet mosque still offered a lot even from outside. 

I continued on and found myself across the Square and staring at Hagia Sofia from a distance. I admit I wasnt that much impressed by the architecture looking from the outside. But I was well aware of the history... yet to be discovered and explored the following day. 

The jetlag was slowly creeping in and my cramps was starting to bother me. I dedcided to head back to the Hotel. 

On the way, a small unnoticeable cafe caught my eye. Its always those small local

S6shot- Baho of Turkish Street Cafe
And his street art

places that I go for. The Turkish Street Cafe along Gelinik Sokagi was owned by Baho.

S6shot- Black Tea

I sat inside and appreciated the hanging shisha pipes as I sipped my black Turkish tea. As you know, Turkey holds the record of the most tea consuming country. Baho gave me free Turkish delight and asked me where I was from. Street art across his cafe was his own work of art, as he explained. I took a photo and told him ill be back. 

I took a hot shower, planned for thr next day and got lullabied by the last prayers from the nearby mosque.

Merhaba (Hello) Istanbul

We landed at Sabiha Gocken International airport at 1 pm. We were on the Asian side of Turkey. 

I wasnt sure what to expect really. Reviews and writeups all raved about how stunning Istanbul was. But feedback about taxi drivers seemed to be consistent. I just hoped my first encounter would be a good one. 

Emre couldnt speak much English but we managed to understand each other. I made sure I knew where the taxi meter was and watched it like a hawk. I was impressed with his driving skills whilst setting up google maps. I slowly eased up when he showed me the route and the travel time. 

The surrounds gave me the impression of growth. A lot of constructions were underway. Lush green meadows gave signs of early Spring. But I could still feel the cold. 

Emre was speeding at 120 kph and without his seat belt on... I was loving the speed...but not the instant breaks. Ive been warned about Istanbul driving. I just didnt know how it was compared to Manila.

As we approached the Old City, Sultanahmet.. i smiled. I could see the usual hustle and bustle of the city scapes. We passed through Galata Bridge.

S6 shot - Galata Bridge fishermen

I was mesmerized by the number of men with fishing rods. Emre tried to explain to me it was a Saturday. Not really the best time to drive around, so best to walk or tram it. Yes, we kind of understood each other. I had a pre downloaded app to learn a few Turkish words. And we agreed that Cumartesi (Saturdays) means traffic. He was happy when i learned how to count from 1 to 10 in Turkish. 

S6 shot - old city wall ruins

He dropped me off after an hour and a half. That was 200 Tliras. I reckon it was fair. Besides, it was traffic. That was inclusive of a 25 TL tip. 

I was received warmly by the front desk of Sultanahmet Inn Hotel (Akburçak Sk). He carried my bag to the 4th floor and I settled in. I was dead tired. But it was just 3 pm. I looked out of the window and could see the Küçük Ayasofya (little hagia sofia). I went up the rooftop and gazed around, sussed out the  surrounds. 

I unpacked a few things and decided to beat the jetlag by exploring.