Intrepid Day 2 (10-April) - Flight to Trabzon

S6shot-The crazy bunch before boarding

We started a little bit early on a Tuesday since we had to get to the airport for our flight to Trabzon.

I didn't have enough sleep the night before, but thought it best to get some shut eye on the plane. 

The morning started with Jason running back to the other hotel they stayed at the night before because he left his jacket. Suley was able to ask the hotel to send it over, which was a big sigh of relief. I was glad the group was really chilled about it and when Jason got his jacket, everyone were just happy that it made it. 

Over breakfast, I was able to have some chat time with Gai, Gav and Fi. They asked what happened with my Cuba plans. So I gave them a run down of the few months leading to my holiday dates. I then figured out where exactly in Sydney they lived. The day before, Fi and I discussed about our back issues. We also learned Mau just had her knee operation. But all was good and sometimes we just laughed about it through the trip. 

We boarded the van and headed for Ataturk Airport, which was just a fair 30 minutes from the hotel. I was hoping to quickly go to the train station and take a photo where the Orient Express stop was, but because of the mist, decided to hold off on it. 

We got there with a bit of free time. Suley left his laptop in the van but he was quick in retrieving it back. We all joked, "Who's next?" in forgetting something. All was well. Good that the group could laugh about these things rather than be so uptight and "on the dot" kind of outlook. Before boarding, I asked that we had a group photo. Why not. This was the first Black Sea & Beyond Expedition. And yup, my first time to get on a plane with total strangers and embark on a journey. Definitely special and memorable for me. 

We got on the plane and I shared the row with Jason and Suley. I started scribbling on my notebook, Jason got on his tablet to watch a movie and Suley reviewed his books. As we approached Trabzon, Jason and I talked about a few things mostly about politics and social media. I also told them that this was my first time to fly with strangers. lol. Suley just smiled and said Thank you for making this special trip with us. 

We got off the plane and I could feel the cold breeze already. Excitement in the air.

Intrepid Day 1 (09-April) - Istanbul - The Meetup

The traffic was a nightmare. I checked my watch almost every minute, hoping a miracle would happen. I hate getting late most especially when it's a first meetup. The cab driver rang the hotel a couple of times, trying to figure out where abouts it was since there were 2 Golden Horn Hotels. I wonder (at that point in time) which one was better.

Canon80D-Blue Mosque

I must have arrived around 10 past 1 in the afternoon. I rushed through the lobby of the hotel and noticed 2 groups, 1 in the dining area (smaller group) and 1 in the sofa area (bigger group). For some reason I thought I was with the bigger group, brain wasn't working at that moment in time.

A guy approached me before I got to the hotel reception. A little bit taller than me and looked really young. He asked me if I was there for the Intrepid trip and if I was from the US. I answered yes and didn't bother answering the US Question, then told him I was late and I that I needed to go the group (pointing at the sofa area). He asked me if I was with the Black Sea and Beyond. I said yes. And that's when I realized I was looking at the wrong side of the hotel. He smiled, took my bag and introduced himself as Suleyman, our tour guide.

I joined the group pretty much embarrassed. Everyone was already there and it seemed like they already started. I sat at the end of the table and looked at the Intrepid bag in front of me. It included a few print outs and also Suleyman's calling card along with a breakdown of the potential weather for the next few days. One thing that I really liked in the bag was a keychain of an evil eye. More of a protection against evil. I quickly attached it to my backpack.

Canon80D-Inside of Suleymaniye Camii (Mosque)

Suleyman came back to the group and continued on with the orientation. It was good that it was a small bunch. Intimate and not too crowded. Just the way I like it. I knew the age range was exactly the one I'd be more comfortable in. It was really good that he organized copies of Turkish words which would be helpful for us to get by. I always believe that it is part of traveling to learn a few local words. I asked if he had a nickname, he said his friends called him Suley. As much as he looked really young, he had a certain level of maturity.. more of an old soul. Yet to be discovered through the trip.

After the orientation, Suley asked us to introduce ourselves to the group and also mention our expectations. Gai was the first one to say Hi to the group. She was traveling with both her daughter Fiona and Gavin, her son-in-law . It made me happy to learn that they were all from Sydney. We just quickly clicked and connected. Gav and Fi just got married 6 months prior to the travel and were still on honeymoon mode. Next were Jason and Maureen who were from the US, they've been dating for over a year already and were on their first overseas trip together. They were really cute together. Then of course, there was me. The solo traveler. I told them that I was originally supposed to go to Cuba but that got cancelled. So yeah, there I was, just a few weeks before the Intrepid trip... I decided to book it in and just go for it. Besides, Turkey was in my original Bucket list. I knew at that point in time, after meeting the group, I was meant to be there.

Canon80D-Zincirli Han

We started our exploration and walked through town. It gave us a good opportunity to bond with each other. We first walked towards the Sultanahment square. I was already so familiar with the area but this time around there were trucks unloading tulips and carpets of it getting laid in front of Hagia Sofia. It was really pretty with the sun out compared to how the surrounds looked the day before. Suley said that by the time we got back to Istanbul, the whole grounds would be filled with tulips.

The hippodrome was another interesting site that we visited, which mainly served as the area for the chariot racing back in the Byzantine time. It was a little bit overwhelming to imagine we were standing on a massive sports arena of horses. Hippo meaning "Horses"and Dromos for "Way", of course in Greek language.

As we all knew, the Blue Mosque was closed so we only stayed for a short while, took photos and also Suley gave us a run through of the history. It was back in Sultan Ahmet I when this amazing architecture was built. Locals would usually call it Sultan Ahmet Camii (Mosque) instead of the blue mosque. The latter being more of a descriptive title because of the blue tiles inside. I was so much looking forward to see those tiles, but I wasn't lucky this time. Opening would be 15th of May. The architecture encompassed the Ottoman time, a mix of Islamic and Christian design (from Hagia Sophia). Still a functioning mosque, I could see a lot of men washing their feet after saying their prayers.

Canon80D-Views from Suleymaniye Camii over the Golden Horn & Bhosporus

We then walked through the Grand Bazaar which was actually different from what I expected. Having been to the Bazaar in Marrakech, Morocco, I was more of picturing a chaotic scene of stalls with people bartering with the storekeeper. But what we saw was a very much organised and pathways to multiple stalls, with bright lights and a lovely clean setup.

We took a turn to a corridor and found ourselves in what's called Zincirli Han. A lovely courtyard, old style, intimate and for me.. stunning. It looked authentic and seemed to have held a lot of history for shop owners. We all went up the steep stairs and took a few photos. It was 2 levels, with the upper floor being home to workshops and other offices.

We then walked further and went through the University sides. The cobbled streets took to another well known spot in Istanbul. Suleymaniye mosque. The architecture was amazing with the domes but moreso, I loved the size and space that the prayer area offered. It had a certain energy that seemed to invite one to kneel down towards Mecca. It was the first mosque I've entered since coming to Istanbul. I used my own scarf as a hijab and took off my shoes. Suley asked us to sit down for a while so he could give us a background of the history. This mosque was designed by the well known Architect Sinan under Suleyman the Magnificent during the Ottoman Reign over Turkey. It had a blended design of Islamic and Byzantine. After taking a few photos, a few volunteers approached us and shared leaflets about Islam and a few more interesting facts about the history and practice. The courtyard outside offered stunning views of the Golden Horn and Bhosporus Strait.

S6shot-No smoking
Corlulu Ali
Pasha Madrasah

We then continue on to the Spice Bazaar. Another must to check out in Istanbul. The colors were stunning through the corridors. Then Suley took us to Corlulu Ali Pasha Madrasah, a very local where people go to have tea and obviously, shisha. It was ironic to see a sign on the wall that said "No Smoking". And of course, I couldn't help but to take a photo of smoke puffing out of these gentlemen with the the no smoking sign in the background. I've tried both before, i.e. shisha and smoking a cigarette. Neither really did any good to my lungs.

After all of the walking, we went back to the hotel to have a quick rest. Fi's back was hurting so they decided to stay in for the night. Mau, Jason, Suley and I went out to a local kebab shop and had a yummy dinner.

The following day was going to be the real start of the adventure. I closed my eyes a little bit cold (heater wasn't working), tired but filled with excitement.

The morning before Intrepid Expedition (09 April '18)

I slept in on to compensate for the late night activities. I knew I had to have more sleep in preparation for the Intrepid meetup. I wanted to go to Fener and Balat but computing the remaining hours I decided to go to the Post Shop instead.

I went up for breakfast and chose the corner, multitasking while finishing up the postcards. I had a few more to write and I realized my hands were stiff. It was pretty cold and I was in a rush. I looked out the window and could see the top of Little AyaSofia from a distance. I still haven't visited the site. History states that this was built before the well known AyaSofya in Sultanahmet square. 

After breakfast I said goodbye to the cleaning lady. She always had a sweet smile. I think it was also because I was the only solo traveler in the hotel, that the more she felt compelled to look after me. Thinking about my previous travels, this has always been the case. Mothers seem to always have that endearment towards me. 

I went out of the hotel thinking the post office was close by. For some reason, the mini map I was looking at gave me the impression that there was a P sign somewhere around. I ended up finding one half an hour walk away compared to a 10 minute walk I initially thought it was. 

The walk was pretty interesting, going through the side of town where tourists didn't really bother to explore. The area I went for showed me the day to day activities of workers and families on a Monday morning. Just the way I like it when exploring. I passed by a small playground with Mothers pushing their kids on the swing. A few shops and interesting museums were along the way. One that actually caught my eyes was the Photography Mini Museum. But the Closed sign was still out, It was just 8:30 am when I passed by. 

The streets became busier as I approached the Post office. Garbage trucks were passing through the neighborhood and cars were getting impatient. I couldn't forget the curious looks of people as I passed by. I took everything in, appreciating the moment and opportunity to walk these streets and see it all. 

I entered the Post office and everyone looked at me. I asked if someone could speak English. I was directed to the last guy in the room. I was told he could speak English. Apparently.. not. lol. It was actually an interesting exchange. He just stamped my postcards....not with the actual "stamps". I was wondering if it was going to get to the people I sent it to. The next goal was to send a package to New Zealand. Yup, that one, I wasn't sure if we understood each other. After doing everything, he gave me my receipt, smiled and said, Thank You. Great, I thought. That was the only English word I got out of him. As of this writing, I've been told by a few of my friends that they received the postcards. Whew!

I rushed back to the hotel needing to pack-up. There was another morning mission I had to do. To pass by the Turkish Street Cafe and have tea, as I promised the guy the other day. It was a delightful morning sitting outside the cafe whilst talking to a few of the customers. As much as I wanted to stay, I had to leave. Baho hailed a cab for me and hugged me goodbye. We connected via Instagram. 

I was on my way to The Golden Horn Hotel to meetup with the group for Intrepid - Black Sea & Beyond. The next 8/9 days was going to be in the company with strangers. I hoped everyone would be cool. I didn't really have much expectations, with an Open Mind and an Open Heart, I jumped into the cab, already aware that I was running late. Eeek! not a good start for impressions!

When Music wasn't part of the plan

I wasnt really sure where the train line was when I got out of the church. I zipped up my jacket since it was getting a bit chilly. I traced my steps back along Independence Avenue until I found the T sign to the Beyoglu station. The escalators were long and the floors were clean. I was glad it wasnt rush hour else I would have been overwhelmed. The design reminded me of Singapore. 

I found the Sishane station and had a feat with the ticket machine trying to figure out how to set the language to English. I just needed 1 ticket. Just 1 ticket. 1 way to Sultanahmet. After 15 minutes, the machine decided to agree with me. I approached the guard and asked, "English?" He looked at me and shook his head. I wish I was talking to the machine again, at least it could translate. 

We both agreed to look at the train station map. Then he said something in Turkish which I didnt quite grasp. In the end I had to take a photo after he pointed 2 points, Karakoy and Sultanahmet. I thought, what was the worse that could happen? Me, going on a train trip back and forth across Istanbul. What other way to get familiar. 

 

I got off Karakoy, went down, went up and discovered I was on tbe wrong lane. I was going back to where I started. I was mumbling under my breath of how silly I was.I finally found the right side. The night lights were on as I looked out the window. I wondered how the night life was. As much as I knew I looked like a foreigner, I already felt immersed. 

I got off Sultanahmet train stop and walked across the Hippodrome. Hagia Sofia and The Blue Mosque were looking more elegant with the lights on. I took a few shots on my phone..wishing I had my stand to take low exposure  shots. I chose to be lightweight on this trip so I had to forego the thought of it. 

The bazaar was closing but some stalls were still open for late night shopping. I got to the hotel

around 8:30 and asked them to ring Kalamar Restaurant (Sehsuvar Bey Quarter, we Anchor Sokak No: 21-27, 34126), a seafood place in the nearby area of Kumkapi. The service was really good. They offered pickup and drop-off from the hotel. As much as I was tired and wanting to eat and call it a night, I promised reception I'll check the resto out. So there I was around 9, in an old car, heading out for Kalamar.

The owner opened the door and greeted me. We walked along a strip filled with restaurants and I could see tables and chairs were setup outside the main dining areas with music filling the air from those who chose to have musicians as part of the ambiance. I was offered to sit outside but being a solo, I wasn't in the mood to people watch in the cold. The restaurant has 2 indoor dining areas in the first level and another one upstairs. The other half was packed with a wedding dinner party going on, so I chose the other side where it was more quiet and private.

I chose a spot beside the window, with good views of the street that offered me a scene to check whilst waiting for my food. Street lights were abundant and Kalamar had their hand-made candles (by the owner) and bouquet of flowers designed to add more life to the outdoor tables.

The order was a bit massive for me when everything arrived. The appetizer menu was filled with a variety of seafood and salad delights. For me, it was enough of a meal since I wasn't really that hungry to begin with. But since the hotel owner recommended it, I just went with the flow. The starters were all served cold style and some were really yummy. The fish, which was a sea brim, was a winner, right enough of crispy and of course typically juicy inside. The meat was tender and fresh, just the way I like it.

The wedding event was pretty loud, but I was amazed watching them dance the usual local Turkish moves. The group looked really young. Later on, I found out the bride and groom were only 26 years old. Typical age for marriage in Turkish culture. I was just starting my career overseas at that point of my life. The bride looked really pretty in her white dress. The owner asked me if I wanted to take a photo with the couple but I politely declined. I just found it a little bit off for me to disrupt an intimate event in their lives. 

There was a group of musicians whom he hired. A bunch of gypsies, as how he called them. In Turkish lingo, I wasn't sure what that really meant. My interpretation of "gypsy" is those people who moves around in their caravan and loves to play music and foretell the future. The bunch were made up of 5 guys, the fiddler being the main musician of the group. 

I ended up jamming with them, when the owner asked them to take down the guitar from the wall. Nylon stringed and all, I found out it was a guitar of his niece. Go figure. IT wasn't tuned, so I had to use someone's cellphone from the gypsy band to make sure I wasn't embarrassing myself.
Jamming Video 

I played a few of my songs, as requested by the owner. He listened and even took a video. The night was starting to be midnight, until the clock turned 1 and the restaurant was due to close. Still, we were there and just laughing out loud. The owner tried to teach me my first Turkish song, as I played along to the beat. It was fun. It was memorable. 

His brother dropped me off at the hotel and I said goodbye. I finished the day filled with so much memories of this beautiful city, Istanbul.

Tomorrow was another adventure ahead, joining the first Intrepid Expedition Trip - Black Sea & Beyond. I closed my eyes and wished it would be another memorable one for the books.