A Special Sunday in Beyoģlu, Istanbul

One of my main goals going to that side of the city was to attend Sunday service in a Catholic Church. Research showed that all the churches were on the Beyoglu side. And I made a promise that despite the distance, I would still make sure I made it.

S6shot - Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua

It was still early so I thought of visiting 2 Catholic Churches then choose which one Id feel more at home with for Service. 1 had a 7pm mass in English, the other in Spanish. I didnt mind either. As much as I had a certain level of fear due to the terrorist attacks, I knew in my heart this was something I wanted to do.

I visited Church of Saint Mary Dreperis first. Simple and a few steps below the main street, it is known to be one of the oldest Roman Catholic Churches in Istanbul dating back to tbe 15th century. It was protected with high gates which were wrapped with layers of barb wires but the gate itself was artsy. The congregation was of Franciscana Friars who fled to Galata during Ottomans reign. It was Clara Maria Draperis, a Letvinian, who offered them a house with a tiny chapel. 

The steep descent offered views of the neoclassical architecture. There were a few people who visited to my surprise. I didnt realize tourists would be interested in a Catholic Church in Istanbul. The interior was simple, not too lavish for my liking. It was quaint for a church but gave out this homey amd welcoming feel. We werent allowed to approach the altar, so I just sat at the back and said my prayers. All in gratitude that everything was going smoothly. 

The next was the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua, which was built in the 19th century but holds the most church goers in Istanbul. It is currently managed and maintained by Italian priests and was design with a Venetian Neo-Gothic style.

I entered the church and observed the interiors. Ive always loved either Neo-Classical or Neo-Gothic style. Although I usually tend to lean more on anything Gothic. There were more tourists this time. Clicks of cameras and whispers. The size was bigger than St.Mary Dreperis. I didnt linger long. I did start reading the informative boards they displayed along the entrance, but decided to walk more. 

S6shot - some of the alleys

I decided to wait for the 6:30 mass at Saint Mary Dreperis. The energy there was more homey and simple. It was just 4 pm.

As I got out of the Basiclica, a bookstore caught my eye. It was modern looking and had a few books in English. I chose between a fiction book written by the famous Turkish author Orhan Pamuk and one that was more contemporary written by a lady Alex Scott who was born and raised in the UK and half Turkish. I chose the latter since it was about the perspective of someone going back to Turkey to learn her roots.

I happily bought the book and chose a cafe to kill time. I forgot the name of the cafe but it looked fancy from the outside, with posh looking people having their afternoon tea. I chose the corner where nobody knew I existed. I had my fig tree fudge with ice cream and a cup of tea. I started reading the book, Turkey Uprising. By 6 pm I decided to head down to Saint Mary Dreperis. I sat in silence at the 2nd to last pew. A latin-americana, seemed 19 to early 20's was seated behind me...sounded like he was either sniffling or crying. I wanted to give him a tissue but thought it rude to disturb his moment. 

Apparently, that evening was going to be a special one. A lady was to be baptized and confirmed into the Roman Catholic religion. And they also renewed wedding vows, now having it done with a Catholic priets. I got invited to seat with 3 Filipina women who were living in Istanbul. They were really friendly and welcoming. The mass was in Spanish but we were also given English missalettes so we can translate. There were 2 priests. Before it began, both were welcoming people in. I talked to the one who looked Spanish and had a warm and pleasant face. I asked him if he was one of the local priests there, and he answered that he wad sort of a priest. I wondered about his response. By the time the service started, I saw him wearing a Bishops head piece. I was so embarassed!!! I later on found out he was Father Ruben Tierrablanca Gonzalez, appointed Apostolic Vicar of Istanbul by the Holy Father.

There were a few more people who were seated at the back. They found it interesting how we do the Baptismal rites. It was such an intimate and lovely ceremony. I watcbed the lady wipe her tears, as we all walked behind her towards the altar. 

They invited me to join them for a simple tea, but I politely declined. I had to head back to the hotel since I said Ill try the restaurant they suggested. Walking back would take me 1.5 hours so I knew that Id had to go and take the train. Another challenge. LoL. 

I said goodbye and went on my way. I felt so blessed to have been part of the ceremony whilst in Turkey. 

I thought the night was over from all the spontaneous surprises, but apparently it wasnt over. Other than taking public transport and the adrenalin I had... just when I thought my day couldnt get any better.... the rest of the night was going to be another memorable one for me.

Exploring Galata & Beyoglu

Crossing the streets reminded me of back home, i.e. Manila. It was still tame

S6shot- Fruit stalls

compared to Vietnam and Egypt. Pedestrian crossings were non existent despite the clear streak of white lines on the road. I later on realized that I was following some locals, who were making their own crossing path. Wrong move. 

The Galata Tower was built in the 13th Century which provided views of the Golden Horn and other side of Istanbul. It was apparently as the Tower of Christ during Constantinople days. Later on it served as a viewing vantage point to identify fires during the Ottoman regime.

S6shot- Karakoy side street

I reached Karakoy and chose the path steep enough to make me huff and puff. Going up a flight of stone stairs along Haci Ali Sokak that had small souvenir shops and quaint cafes on the side was a cute site to see. I stopped at one of them and bought 2 postcards. The line going up the Galata Tower was long enough to put me off. I figured photos of it was better from a distance. So I decided to explore the surrounds and head towards the direction of Taksim square. 

Along the way I stopped at one of the shops. It was on my list to pick up some Turkish towels. I was fully aware it was something I could easily buy in Sydney or anywhere else outside Turkey. But there was something more authentic with buying it from its origins. 100% percent cotton, exactly my thing. We discussed the weight and I figured that the weight should still be manageable. I bought a big one for me, light blue, good for a sofa. Then 2 red and white small ones, for both Mom and Rosie. 

The streets were so busy. The shops were a collection of clothing, music, cafes, fruits, towels  jewelry and all other items that were eye candy for shopping. I tried to escape temptation. Various fruit stalls lined up along the streets, offering a range of orange, pineapple and promeganate juice. The latter which I found out was something typical in Tur

The streets slowly got wider and the shops were more Western when I got to

Protesters

Independence Avenue. As I reached the end of the small alleyway, a group of people were shouting something I didnt understand. Banners for the demonsration were afloat and police trucks with armed men surrounded the group. I later on learned that these were the plant owners of sugar plantations, asking the government of Erdogan to stop his plans of selling. It quite scared me seeing a brigade of police, knowing the street I was on was leading to Taksim Square, where both peaceful but also riot filled demonstrations took place. I stopped for a while and allowed the group pass by. 

Buskers

Local buskers found their spots in each of the corners of the main shopping strip. One with girls playing the violin and on the other side, a group of 3 men singing Turkish songs with a guitar. How I wished I understood what they were singing.

I continued on.

Crossing Galata Bridge

S6shot- Europe side view from bridge
Sinker caught in the wire

The clouds were dramatic, as it poured rain over the Golden Horn. I survived crossing the street and walking towards the ferry ports. Before the trip, I was considering catching the ferry but the weather wasnt on my side this time. The hours spent crossing the bridge was one of my memorable moments in Istanbul.

The Galata Bridge was supposed to be designed by Leonardo Da Vinci during the Ottoman reign. But what he produced didnt satisfy Sultan Bayezid II. Another great artist, Michelangelo waz requested to design a bridge over the Golden Horn but he declined. It was only by 1994 that the current one was built. A location to bridge Karakoy and Eminonu.

I reached Eminonu Kadikoy Iskelesi and watched the fishermen from afar...them seriously watching if their rods showed signs of a twitch.. catch of the day. With the rain drenching me wet, I decided to follow the path under the bridge. 

Numerous restaurants offering seafood menus were enticing. Heaps of tour groups

S6shot- Galata Tower and Bridge, view from Eminonu

were booked as I peeked from the outside. It was already 2 pm and I started feeling my stomach growl. For the past few months, my craving for seafood has took reign of my palette. This was the right place to have lunch. At some point, I found myself laughing when the line of a fisherman went straight for the wire below, with its sinker wrapping around it..instead of hitting the water. After a few minutes, the owner was unknotting it. I almost told him how to throw a line properly.

A small alley way showed me a different view from the bridge. I quickly walked through and found that this side showed a better panoramic view of both the European and Asian side of Turkey. The wind was blowing and my nonwater proof jacket was getting wet. It was hard to take a photo from where I stood.

S6shot- Wooden
Handler

I chose one of the corner seafood restaurants with less people, called Ab-I Hayat. A family and 2 couples were the only ones inside. The owner ushered me to the corner, with the whole table to myself but with beautiful views of the colorful ferry boats. I looked at the menu and salivated with the fish options. The names were all familiar ranging from sea brim, sea bass, sardines, trout, etc. I researched a few things before deciding which one to go for. I ended up choosing sea bass. One of our favourites back in NZ. 

I quietly had my lunch and couldnt help give a happy sigh. It all felt right. I was where I was supposed to be. I know I always appreciate places I go to. But there are times when my senses amd emotions are heightened. Its been a while since Ive traveled by myself. And the timing of this one was just perfect. It was time to revisit Me. Enough of the dramas of the year that was.

The sea bass was lovely. Fresh and juicy inside out. I didnt eat any bread, something I have taken out of my diet for quite some time now. I ate the fish to the bone... thinking my sisters would have loved it. 

The restaurant slowly became smokey. Groups of men smoking their shisha pipes surrounded me. Smoking shisha inside pubs and restos was allowed around Turkey. But signs of No Smoking were abundant around. I found it ironic. 

The rain mellowed down. I headed upstairs and quickly chatted with some of the fishermen. It was interesting how they handled multiple rods. There were handmade wooden holders to keep them stable whilst the owner walked around. I took a few photos and headed to Galata tower.

Sultanahmet - Part II

Basilica Cistern

I quickly found my way through Sultanahmet square. The clouds still lingered around. The Basilica Cistern was just across Hagia Sofia. The line wasnt that long to my delight. The entry fee was 20 Liras and as far as I remember wasnt included in the Museum Pass.

The cistern was built in the 6th century and served as a water filtration system for the Palace of Constantinople and even provided water to Topkapi Palace in 1453. This is the largest in Istanbul. 

The walk down the stairs gave a top view of the Cistern. I was glad I decided to change footwear. The floors were slippery for my old worn out shoes. Yes, mention of shoewear has been important for me. Later on to be more realized on my Cappadocia trip. 

It was dark and dim lights served as guide through the corridor elevated from the actual ground. Selfie sticks kept on hitting my head. I womder if that was an indication of my height or worse,  my seemingly non- existence. I just let them be. At the corner, a small setup for costume photography served as the booth for people who wanted to wear Turkish traditional clothing. I passed through the crowd and followed the viewing platform.

It was impressive that part of the cistern still remained, a structure that was dated back from Emperor Justinian I. There was still evidence of water although I wasnt sure if ot was clean enough. There were sections with displays, which I read through. Towards the middle of the cistern was a sort of wishing area were shimmering from the water below. 

The columns of Medusa were quite interesting. Greek mythology back when we were young told stories of this woman with snake hair that turned people to stone. The face was noticeable at the base. It was creepy staring at her hollowed eyes..wondering where all of these myths originate from. 

I fimished the walk in less than an hour. Walking up for fresh air as I exited the cistern, led me to the tramline close to Topkapi Palace. 

Surrounds of Topkapi

The Topkapi Palace (Cannon Gate) was built during the 15th century Ottomans reign. It served as the home of Sultans during their regime and also location for admin offices. It was added to the UNESCO Heritage list in 1985. This now serves as a museum. 

I didnt opt for going inside, instead I just walked around the park. I was timing my afternoon, leaving enough hours to explore Beyoglu, in the Asian side. 

The tulips were lovely, ordained around the park. Being a Sunday, families and tourists alike walked along the pathway, where trees and carpets of tulips added beautiful colours to a grey and cloudy day. 

I eventually found the side street to Galata Bridge. It was raining cats and dogs. I was ready for the Asia side of Turkey.

Out and About in Sultanahmet (Old City) - Part 1

S6shot- The domes

I woke up way before the alarm clock. The 6 am wakeup call wasnt required at all. By 5:30 am the first call for prayer blasted from the speakers of the closeby mosque.

I went up to the 5th floor and found a girl gazing out the window at the quaint kitchen of the hotel. I quickly sussed out the rooftop views until I couldnt handle the cold. 

I had a quick chat with the girl and found out they were on their way back home to Germany from Ethiopia  just on a short pit stop in Istanbul. I asked about breakfast and was given a tip about the cute hippie stores around Galata tower. I definitely noted that down.

Reviews suggested to visit Hagia Sofia first thing in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds. Exactly what I planned for...early morning. So I decided to have dinner in close proximity.  I opted for the Turkish style of Continental breakfast.

HISTORY IN A NUTSHELL

Turkeys history is very rich. From Byzantines to Romans then Ottomans which eventually led to the Republic of Turkey. Ok..i think that was too much of a shortcut. What really made an impression to me was Ataturk himself. 

We grew up and got introduced to the terms Anatolia or also known as Asian Minor. Another which was Constantinople, the name of Turkey during times of Constantine the Great. So how are all of these connected? Thats for a separate writeup. 😊

EXPLORING HAGIA SOFIA

S6shot- Virgin Mary with
Child Jesus

I lined up quarter to 9 am. There were already tout groups in the queue. Dark clouds were filling in the sky, I feared the rain but nothing I could do with the weather. I paid the entrance fee and hired an audio guide.

Hagia Sofia means "Holy Wisdom" in Latin but is also now called AyaSofya in Turkish. It was built during 534 AD, as instructed by Emperor Justinian I of the Byzantine empire. It served as a Christian Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Wisdom of God. 

In 1453, when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, AyaSofya was then converted to a mosque under the rule of Mehmed. As with all other churches during the Ottoman rule, a lot of  religious relics were destroyed and a few frescoes covered or were either erased or plastered over. The substantial change was the adding of the 4 minarets. This was kept as a mosque until 1931. By 1935 with the birth of The Republic of Turkey, AyaSofya was converted to a Museum (Müsezi). 

This was said to be the architecture that changed history. I do recall almost the same architecture around East Europe whilst my travels in 2013. Obviously, this served as an inspiration to the Ottomans during their reign of power. 

The structure that stands tall today wasnt the original one. The first simple creation in the 400s BC time was destroyed by a riot, which was once called Great Church. A second one was built but this was destroyed by fire during a revolt. 

By the 500s BC, Emperor Justinian I decided to build a better, bigger and stronger structure. It took years but the magnificence was an image of perfection during that period. Unfortunately earthquakes caused damages and required reconstructions and repair. 

S6shot- Deësis Mosaic
Virgin Mary and John the Baptist asking for
Jesus intercession during Judgement day

It was amazing to know that it was the Armenian architect Trdat, who also designed
the Cathedral of Ani, who was asked to direct the repairs. By the 900s BC, additions to the design are some of which you would now see, i.e. cherubims and Peter and Paul with Virgin Mary with the child Jesus in tne middle. 

The invasion and success of the Ottomans on the 29th of May, 1453 was the death of thousands of innocent people. Unimagineable acts of cruelty occured on the grounds of Hagia Sofia, which was served as their refuge until the Ottoman army barged in to claim their rule.

S6shot- wishing hole

S6shot- The Beautiful door

Before I flew in to Istanbul, it was said on the news that Erdogan recited Islamic prayers at Hagia Sofia much to the dismay of Greece but appraisal of Muslim Turks. My thinking? Why cant they just keep it neutral. If you think about it, the real descendants were not Turks anyway. Instead of fighting why not just keep things peaceful? To this day I still do not understand rage and wars among religions. I think its really a war of "man" and need for control. 

I explored the grounds of this magnificent structure and couldnt help but be humbled by the grandeur of its architecture. It was a shame that half of the main hall was covered due to maintenance. A few stray cats loitered around the grounds. One which caught my eye since it wanted to go up a set of stairs, instead looked up, shrieked to empty space as if it saw a ghost then ran away. Im sure with the history of the place, souls linger these grounds endlessly.

As I approached the West Wing, I finally found the wishing hole. Also known by the different names, but I chose it to be the wishing one. I put my tuumb in and tried as hard as I can to rotate my hand clockwise and complete a turn. I made a wish. They say it can heal illnesses. I touched my heart.

I exited through the Beautiful Door, the only genuine known piece of proof from 2th century BC, from the Hellenestic temple of Tarsus and placed there by Emperor Theophilos. Sheer admiration for the existence of this bronze door.

The Columbus clouds covered Istanbul and rain started pouring. I quickly ran to the souvenir store, kept myself warm and checked their items. I came out with a magnet and 15 postcards. Typical of me. As much as I wanted to get myself coasters, it was just too early to be collecting weight.
___________________________________________________________

I decided to go back to the hotel and change footwear. My worn out Nike sneakers didnt have much traction and I felt my feet slipping from time to time. On the way, I stopped at the corner coffee shop with a view of Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Ironically, I ordered Bhaklava with ice cream despite the freezing weather. My numb fingers trembled as I slowly wrote on the postcards. There was no way I was going to finish all of the ice cream. Eek!!

I knocked at the front door of the Inn hotel and they were surprised I was back early. I pointed at my shoes and quickly ran upstairs. I changed to my sturdy hiking North Face boots which I had with me during Nomad Enroutd in 2013. Wear and tear did not make me doubt its reliability. I had the right ankle support I needed.

On the way down I bumped into the cleaning lady and she gave me a warm smile. I was trying to make a hijab out of my scarf but was doing a bad job with it. She laughed and helped me set it up better around my face. By 1 pm, I was back on my way to Sultanahmet square. Next stop, Basilica Cistern.

My First Night in Istanbul

I went out around sunset time. I could hear prayers from the mosque (camii). Famished and weak, I was craving for proper food. Airplane meals never really gave me comfort.

I walked along Small Ayasofya street and savoured the chill air. The traffic was still

S6shot- Hagia Sofia

chaotic and honking horns still filled the air. I found the closest Restaurant and had early dinner there. I was taken to the rooftop where there were views. The guy asked my background and kissed my hand. Years ago Id be flattered. Now adays those moves just wouldnt work for me. I happily finished my steak in the silence of the setting Istanbul sun. The guy was trying to offer me a massage under the stars. I wondered if that was the typical line if they saw a solo female traveler. I politely smiled and declined. The chill of the night was slowly creeping in. 

S6shot- Arasta Bazaar

I found myself walking through the Arasta Bazaar, a collection of spices, clothing, jewelery and various Turkish items. The stone cobbled alley was adorned with etched stones that ordained the drainage system. Artsy, I must say. 

Towards Sultanahmet square, the towering Blue Mosque towered from a distance. Ive seen a couple of photos online, showcasing the beauty of artistry inside. I walked around the perimeter and observed the crowd. Lots of locals and tourists were admiring the facade as much as I was. The blooming tulips added a stunning contrast to the gray backdrop. 

Unfortunately, the mosque was closed for refurbishing. Yet to be opened on the 15th
of May. Just my luck. Lol. I walked around the washing area instead. Still a functioning mosque, the once constructed Sultan Ahmet mosque still offered a lot even from outside. 

I continued on and found myself across the Square and staring at Hagia Sofia from a distance. I admit I wasnt that much impressed by the architecture looking from the outside. But I was well aware of the history... yet to be discovered and explored the following day. 

The jetlag was slowly creeping in and my cramps was starting to bother me. I dedcided to head back to the Hotel. 

On the way, a small unnoticeable cafe caught my eye. Its always those small local

S6shot- Baho of Turkish Street Cafe
And his street art

places that I go for. The Turkish Street Cafe along Gelinik Sokagi was owned by Baho.

S6shot- Black Tea

I sat inside and appreciated the hanging shisha pipes as I sipped my black Turkish tea. As you know, Turkey holds the record of the most tea consuming country. Baho gave me free Turkish delight and asked me where I was from. Street art across his cafe was his own work of art, as he explained. I took a photo and told him ill be back. 

I took a hot shower, planned for thr next day and got lullabied by the last prayers from the nearby mosque.

Merhaba (Hello) Istanbul

We landed at Sabiha Gocken International airport at 1 pm. We were on the Asian side of Turkey. 

I wasnt sure what to expect really. Reviews and writeups all raved about how stunning Istanbul was. But feedback about taxi drivers seemed to be consistent. I just hoped my first encounter would be a good one. 

Emre couldnt speak much English but we managed to understand each other. I made sure I knew where the taxi meter was and watched it like a hawk. I was impressed with his driving skills whilst setting up google maps. I slowly eased up when he showed me the route and the travel time. 

The surrounds gave me the impression of growth. A lot of constructions were underway. Lush green meadows gave signs of early Spring. But I could still feel the cold. 

Emre was speeding at 120 kph and without his seat belt on... I was loving the speed...but not the instant breaks. Ive been warned about Istanbul driving. I just didnt know how it was compared to Manila.

As we approached the Old City, Sultanahmet.. i smiled. I could see the usual hustle and bustle of the city scapes. We passed through Galata Bridge.

S6 shot - Galata Bridge fishermen

I was mesmerized by the number of men with fishing rods. Emre tried to explain to me it was a Saturday. Not really the best time to drive around, so best to walk or tram it. Yes, we kind of understood each other. I had a pre downloaded app to learn a few Turkish words. And we agreed that Cumartesi (Saturdays) means traffic. He was happy when i learned how to count from 1 to 10 in Turkish. 

S6 shot - old city wall ruins

He dropped me off after an hour and a half. That was 200 Tliras. I reckon it was fair. Besides, it was traffic. That was inclusive of a 25 TL tip. 

I was received warmly by the front desk of Sultanahmet Inn Hotel (Akburçak Sk). He carried my bag to the 4th floor and I settled in. I was dead tired. But it was just 3 pm. I looked out of the window and could see the Küçük Ayasofya (little hagia sofia). I went up the rooftop and gazed around, sussed out the  surrounds. 

I unpacked a few things and decided to beat the jetlag by exploring.

Turkey

It wasnt really part of the plan. Yes, included in my bucket list since 2006...but not part of my 2018 travel plans. It was supposed to be Cuba. But as you know, some plans cease to exist, thus the opprtunity for a better option....now in hindsight, worked out to be the best one.

For some reason Turkey came to mind just when Cuba plans were cancelled. I was aware of the Syria unrest but an Expedition to the Black Sea and Beyond via Intrepid was so enticing to ignore.

With a lil bit of hesitation, i booked Turkey.
The route - Istanbul - trabzon - kars - erzurum - dogubayazit - van - istanbul.
At the time of booking, both Istanbul and Van were on high alert and travel advisories suggested to avoid those locations.

This was going to be my first time to fly with strangers. I thought.... what was the worse that could happen. 😁

I wrote a scroll and left it with Gab and Rem. In any case if something happened to me... it would serve as my eulogy.

I took out my Nomad Enroute backpack.... its been a while. Last trip with this one was 2014. It was time. I started reading about Mustafa Ataturk, the Father of Turks.

On the 6th of April.. Brian carried my backpack and walked me to the train station.

By 10 pm, i was on my way to Turkey (via Doha).

I boarded the plane and watched Murder on the Express...which apparently started from Istanbul. Got me more excited.

Sandwiched in the middle row, i tried to get some sleep.