Intrepid Day 2 (10-April) - Flight to Trabzon

S6shot-The crazy bunch before boarding

We started a little bit early on a Tuesday since we had to get to the airport for our flight to Trabzon.

I didn't have enough sleep the night before, but thought it best to get some shut eye on the plane. 

The morning started with Jason running back to the other hotel they stayed at the night before because he left his jacket. Suley was able to ask the hotel to send it over, which was a big sigh of relief. I was glad the group was really chilled about it and when Jason got his jacket, everyone were just happy that it made it. 

Over breakfast, I was able to have some chat time with Gai, Gav and Fi. They asked what happened with my Cuba plans. So I gave them a run down of the few months leading to my holiday dates. I then figured out where exactly in Sydney they lived. The day before, Fi and I discussed about our back issues. We also learned Mau just had her knee operation. But all was good and sometimes we just laughed about it through the trip. 

We boarded the van and headed for Ataturk Airport, which was just a fair 30 minutes from the hotel. I was hoping to quickly go to the train station and take a photo where the Orient Express stop was, but because of the mist, decided to hold off on it. 

We got there with a bit of free time. Suley left his laptop in the van but he was quick in retrieving it back. We all joked, "Who's next?" in forgetting something. All was well. Good that the group could laugh about these things rather than be so uptight and "on the dot" kind of outlook. Before boarding, I asked that we had a group photo. Why not. This was the first Black Sea & Beyond Expedition. And yup, my first time to get on a plane with total strangers and embark on a journey. Definitely special and memorable for me. 

We got on the plane and I shared the row with Jason and Suley. I started scribbling on my notebook, Jason got on his tablet to watch a movie and Suley reviewed his books. As we approached Trabzon, Jason and I talked about a few things mostly about politics and social media. I also told them that this was my first time to fly with strangers. lol. Suley just smiled and said Thank you for making this special trip with us. 

We got off the plane and I could feel the cold breeze already. Excitement in the air.

Intrepid Day 1 (09-April) - Istanbul - The Meetup

The traffic was a nightmare. I checked my watch almost every minute, hoping a miracle would happen. I hate getting late most especially when it's a first meetup. The cab driver rang the hotel a couple of times, trying to figure out where abouts it was since there were 2 Golden Horn Hotels. I wonder (at that point in time) which one was better.

Canon80D-Blue Mosque

I must have arrived around 10 past 1 in the afternoon. I rushed through the lobby of the hotel and noticed 2 groups, 1 in the dining area (smaller group) and 1 in the sofa area (bigger group). For some reason I thought I was with the bigger group, brain wasn't working at that moment in time.

A guy approached me before I got to the hotel reception. A little bit taller than me and looked really young. He asked me if I was there for the Intrepid trip and if I was from the US. I answered yes and didn't bother answering the US Question, then told him I was late and I that I needed to go the group (pointing at the sofa area). He asked me if I was with the Black Sea and Beyond. I said yes. And that's when I realized I was looking at the wrong side of the hotel. He smiled, took my bag and introduced himself as Suleyman, our tour guide.

I joined the group pretty much embarrassed. Everyone was already there and it seemed like they already started. I sat at the end of the table and looked at the Intrepid bag in front of me. It included a few print outs and also Suleyman's calling card along with a breakdown of the potential weather for the next few days. One thing that I really liked in the bag was a keychain of an evil eye. More of a protection against evil. I quickly attached it to my backpack.

Canon80D-Inside of Suleymaniye Camii (Mosque)

Suleyman came back to the group and continued on with the orientation. It was good that it was a small bunch. Intimate and not too crowded. Just the way I like it. I knew the age range was exactly the one I'd be more comfortable in. It was really good that he organized copies of Turkish words which would be helpful for us to get by. I always believe that it is part of traveling to learn a few local words. I asked if he had a nickname, he said his friends called him Suley. As much as he looked really young, he had a certain level of maturity.. more of an old soul. Yet to be discovered through the trip.

After the orientation, Suley asked us to introduce ourselves to the group and also mention our expectations. Gai was the first one to say Hi to the group. She was traveling with both her daughter Fiona and Gavin, her son-in-law . It made me happy to learn that they were all from Sydney. We just quickly clicked and connected. Gav and Fi just got married 6 months prior to the travel and were still on honeymoon mode. Next were Jason and Maureen who were from the US, they've been dating for over a year already and were on their first overseas trip together. They were really cute together. Then of course, there was me. The solo traveler. I told them that I was originally supposed to go to Cuba but that got cancelled. So yeah, there I was, just a few weeks before the Intrepid trip... I decided to book it in and just go for it. Besides, Turkey was in my original Bucket list. I knew at that point in time, after meeting the group, I was meant to be there.

Canon80D-Zincirli Han

We started our exploration and walked through town. It gave us a good opportunity to bond with each other. We first walked towards the Sultanahment square. I was already so familiar with the area but this time around there were trucks unloading tulips and carpets of it getting laid in front of Hagia Sofia. It was really pretty with the sun out compared to how the surrounds looked the day before. Suley said that by the time we got back to Istanbul, the whole grounds would be filled with tulips.

The hippodrome was another interesting site that we visited, which mainly served as the area for the chariot racing back in the Byzantine time. It was a little bit overwhelming to imagine we were standing on a massive sports arena of horses. Hippo meaning "Horses"and Dromos for "Way", of course in Greek language.

As we all knew, the Blue Mosque was closed so we only stayed for a short while, took photos and also Suley gave us a run through of the history. It was back in Sultan Ahmet I when this amazing architecture was built. Locals would usually call it Sultan Ahmet Camii (Mosque) instead of the blue mosque. The latter being more of a descriptive title because of the blue tiles inside. I was so much looking forward to see those tiles, but I wasn't lucky this time. Opening would be 15th of May. The architecture encompassed the Ottoman time, a mix of Islamic and Christian design (from Hagia Sophia). Still a functioning mosque, I could see a lot of men washing their feet after saying their prayers.

Canon80D-Views from Suleymaniye Camii over the Golden Horn & Bhosporus

We then walked through the Grand Bazaar which was actually different from what I expected. Having been to the Bazaar in Marrakech, Morocco, I was more of picturing a chaotic scene of stalls with people bartering with the storekeeper. But what we saw was a very much organised and pathways to multiple stalls, with bright lights and a lovely clean setup.

We took a turn to a corridor and found ourselves in what's called Zincirli Han. A lovely courtyard, old style, intimate and for me.. stunning. It looked authentic and seemed to have held a lot of history for shop owners. We all went up the steep stairs and took a few photos. It was 2 levels, with the upper floor being home to workshops and other offices.

We then walked further and went through the University sides. The cobbled streets took to another well known spot in Istanbul. Suleymaniye mosque. The architecture was amazing with the domes but moreso, I loved the size and space that the prayer area offered. It had a certain energy that seemed to invite one to kneel down towards Mecca. It was the first mosque I've entered since coming to Istanbul. I used my own scarf as a hijab and took off my shoes. Suley asked us to sit down for a while so he could give us a background of the history. This mosque was designed by the well known Architect Sinan under Suleyman the Magnificent during the Ottoman Reign over Turkey. It had a blended design of Islamic and Byzantine. After taking a few photos, a few volunteers approached us and shared leaflets about Islam and a few more interesting facts about the history and practice. The courtyard outside offered stunning views of the Golden Horn and Bhosporus Strait.

S6shot-No smoking
Corlulu Ali
Pasha Madrasah

We then continue on to the Spice Bazaar. Another must to check out in Istanbul. The colors were stunning through the corridors. Then Suley took us to Corlulu Ali Pasha Madrasah, a very local where people go to have tea and obviously, shisha. It was ironic to see a sign on the wall that said "No Smoking". And of course, I couldn't help but to take a photo of smoke puffing out of these gentlemen with the the no smoking sign in the background. I've tried both before, i.e. shisha and smoking a cigarette. Neither really did any good to my lungs.

After all of the walking, we went back to the hotel to have a quick rest. Fi's back was hurting so they decided to stay in for the night. Mau, Jason, Suley and I went out to a local kebab shop and had a yummy dinner.

The following day was going to be the real start of the adventure. I closed my eyes a little bit cold (heater wasn't working), tired but filled with excitement.

The morning before Intrepid Expedition (09 April '18)

I slept in on to compensate for the late night activities. I knew I had to have more sleep in preparation for the Intrepid meetup. I wanted to go to Fener and Balat but computing the remaining hours I decided to go to the Post Shop instead.

I went up for breakfast and chose the corner, multitasking while finishing up the postcards. I had a few more to write and I realized my hands were stiff. It was pretty cold and I was in a rush. I looked out the window and could see the top of Little AyaSofia from a distance. I still haven't visited the site. History states that this was built before the well known AyaSofya in Sultanahmet square. 

After breakfast I said goodbye to the cleaning lady. She always had a sweet smile. I think it was also because I was the only solo traveler in the hotel, that the more she felt compelled to look after me. Thinking about my previous travels, this has always been the case. Mothers seem to always have that endearment towards me. 

I went out of the hotel thinking the post office was close by. For some reason, the mini map I was looking at gave me the impression that there was a P sign somewhere around. I ended up finding one half an hour walk away compared to a 10 minute walk I initially thought it was. 

The walk was pretty interesting, going through the side of town where tourists didn't really bother to explore. The area I went for showed me the day to day activities of workers and families on a Monday morning. Just the way I like it when exploring. I passed by a small playground with Mothers pushing their kids on the swing. A few shops and interesting museums were along the way. One that actually caught my eyes was the Photography Mini Museum. But the Closed sign was still out, It was just 8:30 am when I passed by. 

The streets became busier as I approached the Post office. Garbage trucks were passing through the neighborhood and cars were getting impatient. I couldn't forget the curious looks of people as I passed by. I took everything in, appreciating the moment and opportunity to walk these streets and see it all. 

I entered the Post office and everyone looked at me. I asked if someone could speak English. I was directed to the last guy in the room. I was told he could speak English. Apparently.. not. lol. It was actually an interesting exchange. He just stamped my postcards....not with the actual "stamps". I was wondering if it was going to get to the people I sent it to. The next goal was to send a package to New Zealand. Yup, that one, I wasn't sure if we understood each other. After doing everything, he gave me my receipt, smiled and said, Thank You. Great, I thought. That was the only English word I got out of him. As of this writing, I've been told by a few of my friends that they received the postcards. Whew!

I rushed back to the hotel needing to pack-up. There was another morning mission I had to do. To pass by the Turkish Street Cafe and have tea, as I promised the guy the other day. It was a delightful morning sitting outside the cafe whilst talking to a few of the customers. As much as I wanted to stay, I had to leave. Baho hailed a cab for me and hugged me goodbye. We connected via Instagram. 

I was on my way to The Golden Horn Hotel to meetup with the group for Intrepid - Black Sea & Beyond. The next 8/9 days was going to be in the company with strangers. I hoped everyone would be cool. I didn't really have much expectations, with an Open Mind and an Open Heart, I jumped into the cab, already aware that I was running late. Eeek! not a good start for impressions!

When Music wasn't part of the plan

I wasnt really sure where the train line was when I got out of the church. I zipped up my jacket since it was getting a bit chilly. I traced my steps back along Independence Avenue until I found the T sign to the Beyoglu station. The escalators were long and the floors were clean. I was glad it wasnt rush hour else I would have been overwhelmed. The design reminded me of Singapore. 

I found the Sishane station and had a feat with the ticket machine trying to figure out how to set the language to English. I just needed 1 ticket. Just 1 ticket. 1 way to Sultanahmet. After 15 minutes, the machine decided to agree with me. I approached the guard and asked, "English?" He looked at me and shook his head. I wish I was talking to the machine again, at least it could translate. 

We both agreed to look at the train station map. Then he said something in Turkish which I didnt quite grasp. In the end I had to take a photo after he pointed 2 points, Karakoy and Sultanahmet. I thought, what was the worse that could happen? Me, going on a train trip back and forth across Istanbul. What other way to get familiar. 

 

I got off Karakoy, went down, went up and discovered I was on tbe wrong lane. I was going back to where I started. I was mumbling under my breath of how silly I was.I finally found the right side. The night lights were on as I looked out the window. I wondered how the night life was. As much as I knew I looked like a foreigner, I already felt immersed. 

I got off Sultanahmet train stop and walked across the Hippodrome. Hagia Sofia and The Blue Mosque were looking more elegant with the lights on. I took a few shots on my phone..wishing I had my stand to take low exposure  shots. I chose to be lightweight on this trip so I had to forego the thought of it. 

The bazaar was closing but some stalls were still open for late night shopping. I got to the hotel

around 8:30 and asked them to ring Kalamar Restaurant (Sehsuvar Bey Quarter, we Anchor Sokak No: 21-27, 34126), a seafood place in the nearby area of Kumkapi. The service was really good. They offered pickup and drop-off from the hotel. As much as I was tired and wanting to eat and call it a night, I promised reception I'll check the resto out. So there I was around 9, in an old car, heading out for Kalamar.

The owner opened the door and greeted me. We walked along a strip filled with restaurants and I could see tables and chairs were setup outside the main dining areas with music filling the air from those who chose to have musicians as part of the ambiance. I was offered to sit outside but being a solo, I wasn't in the mood to people watch in the cold. The restaurant has 2 indoor dining areas in the first level and another one upstairs. The other half was packed with a wedding dinner party going on, so I chose the other side where it was more quiet and private.

I chose a spot beside the window, with good views of the street that offered me a scene to check whilst waiting for my food. Street lights were abundant and Kalamar had their hand-made candles (by the owner) and bouquet of flowers designed to add more life to the outdoor tables.

The order was a bit massive for me when everything arrived. The appetizer menu was filled with a variety of seafood and salad delights. For me, it was enough of a meal since I wasn't really that hungry to begin with. But since the hotel owner recommended it, I just went with the flow. The starters were all served cold style and some were really yummy. The fish, which was a sea brim, was a winner, right enough of crispy and of course typically juicy inside. The meat was tender and fresh, just the way I like it.

The wedding event was pretty loud, but I was amazed watching them dance the usual local Turkish moves. The group looked really young. Later on, I found out the bride and groom were only 26 years old. Typical age for marriage in Turkish culture. I was just starting my career overseas at that point of my life. The bride looked really pretty in her white dress. The owner asked me if I wanted to take a photo with the couple but I politely declined. I just found it a little bit off for me to disrupt an intimate event in their lives. 

There was a group of musicians whom he hired. A bunch of gypsies, as how he called them. In Turkish lingo, I wasn't sure what that really meant. My interpretation of "gypsy" is those people who moves around in their caravan and loves to play music and foretell the future. The bunch were made up of 5 guys, the fiddler being the main musician of the group. 

I ended up jamming with them, when the owner asked them to take down the guitar from the wall. Nylon stringed and all, I found out it was a guitar of his niece. Go figure. IT wasn't tuned, so I had to use someone's cellphone from the gypsy band to make sure I wasn't embarrassing myself.
Jamming Video 

I played a few of my songs, as requested by the owner. He listened and even took a video. The night was starting to be midnight, until the clock turned 1 and the restaurant was due to close. Still, we were there and just laughing out loud. The owner tried to teach me my first Turkish song, as I played along to the beat. It was fun. It was memorable. 

His brother dropped me off at the hotel and I said goodbye. I finished the day filled with so much memories of this beautiful city, Istanbul.

Tomorrow was another adventure ahead, joining the first Intrepid Expedition Trip - Black Sea & Beyond. I closed my eyes and wished it would be another memorable one for the books.

A Special Sunday in Beyoģlu, Istanbul

One of my main goals going to that side of the city was to attend Sunday service in a Catholic Church. Research showed that all the churches were on the Beyoglu side. And I made a promise that despite the distance, I would still make sure I made it.

S6shot - Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua

It was still early so I thought of visiting 2 Catholic Churches then choose which one Id feel more at home with for Service. 1 had a 7pm mass in English, the other in Spanish. I didnt mind either. As much as I had a certain level of fear due to the terrorist attacks, I knew in my heart this was something I wanted to do.

I visited Church of Saint Mary Dreperis first. Simple and a few steps below the main street, it is known to be one of the oldest Roman Catholic Churches in Istanbul dating back to tbe 15th century. It was protected with high gates which were wrapped with layers of barb wires but the gate itself was artsy. The congregation was of Franciscana Friars who fled to Galata during Ottomans reign. It was Clara Maria Draperis, a Letvinian, who offered them a house with a tiny chapel. 

The steep descent offered views of the neoclassical architecture. There were a few people who visited to my surprise. I didnt realize tourists would be interested in a Catholic Church in Istanbul. The interior was simple, not too lavish for my liking. It was quaint for a church but gave out this homey amd welcoming feel. We werent allowed to approach the altar, so I just sat at the back and said my prayers. All in gratitude that everything was going smoothly. 

The next was the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua, which was built in the 19th century but holds the most church goers in Istanbul. It is currently managed and maintained by Italian priests and was design with a Venetian Neo-Gothic style.

I entered the church and observed the interiors. Ive always loved either Neo-Classical or Neo-Gothic style. Although I usually tend to lean more on anything Gothic. There were more tourists this time. Clicks of cameras and whispers. The size was bigger than St.Mary Dreperis. I didnt linger long. I did start reading the informative boards they displayed along the entrance, but decided to walk more. 

S6shot - some of the alleys

I decided to wait for the 6:30 mass at Saint Mary Dreperis. The energy there was more homey and simple. It was just 4 pm.

As I got out of the Basiclica, a bookstore caught my eye. It was modern looking and had a few books in English. I chose between a fiction book written by the famous Turkish author Orhan Pamuk and one that was more contemporary written by a lady Alex Scott who was born and raised in the UK and half Turkish. I chose the latter since it was about the perspective of someone going back to Turkey to learn her roots.

I happily bought the book and chose a cafe to kill time. I forgot the name of the cafe but it looked fancy from the outside, with posh looking people having their afternoon tea. I chose the corner where nobody knew I existed. I had my fig tree fudge with ice cream and a cup of tea. I started reading the book, Turkey Uprising. By 6 pm I decided to head down to Saint Mary Dreperis. I sat in silence at the 2nd to last pew. A latin-americana, seemed 19 to early 20's was seated behind me...sounded like he was either sniffling or crying. I wanted to give him a tissue but thought it rude to disturb his moment. 

Apparently, that evening was going to be a special one. A lady was to be baptized and confirmed into the Roman Catholic religion. And they also renewed wedding vows, now having it done with a Catholic priets. I got invited to seat with 3 Filipina women who were living in Istanbul. They were really friendly and welcoming. The mass was in Spanish but we were also given English missalettes so we can translate. There were 2 priests. Before it began, both were welcoming people in. I talked to the one who looked Spanish and had a warm and pleasant face. I asked him if he was one of the local priests there, and he answered that he wad sort of a priest. I wondered about his response. By the time the service started, I saw him wearing a Bishops head piece. I was so embarassed!!! I later on found out he was Father Ruben Tierrablanca Gonzalez, appointed Apostolic Vicar of Istanbul by the Holy Father.

There were a few more people who were seated at the back. They found it interesting how we do the Baptismal rites. It was such an intimate and lovely ceremony. I watcbed the lady wipe her tears, as we all walked behind her towards the altar. 

They invited me to join them for a simple tea, but I politely declined. I had to head back to the hotel since I said Ill try the restaurant they suggested. Walking back would take me 1.5 hours so I knew that Id had to go and take the train. Another challenge. LoL. 

I said goodbye and went on my way. I felt so blessed to have been part of the ceremony whilst in Turkey. 

I thought the night was over from all the spontaneous surprises, but apparently it wasnt over. Other than taking public transport and the adrenalin I had... just when I thought my day couldnt get any better.... the rest of the night was going to be another memorable one for me.

Exploring Galata & Beyoglu

Crossing the streets reminded me of back home, i.e. Manila. It was still tame

S6shot- Fruit stalls

compared to Vietnam and Egypt. Pedestrian crossings were non existent despite the clear streak of white lines on the road. I later on realized that I was following some locals, who were making their own crossing path. Wrong move. 

The Galata Tower was built in the 13th Century which provided views of the Golden Horn and other side of Istanbul. It was apparently as the Tower of Christ during Constantinople days. Later on it served as a viewing vantage point to identify fires during the Ottoman regime.

S6shot- Karakoy side street

I reached Karakoy and chose the path steep enough to make me huff and puff. Going up a flight of stone stairs along Haci Ali Sokak that had small souvenir shops and quaint cafes on the side was a cute site to see. I stopped at one of them and bought 2 postcards. The line going up the Galata Tower was long enough to put me off. I figured photos of it was better from a distance. So I decided to explore the surrounds and head towards the direction of Taksim square. 

Along the way I stopped at one of the shops. It was on my list to pick up some Turkish towels. I was fully aware it was something I could easily buy in Sydney or anywhere else outside Turkey. But there was something more authentic with buying it from its origins. 100% percent cotton, exactly my thing. We discussed the weight and I figured that the weight should still be manageable. I bought a big one for me, light blue, good for a sofa. Then 2 red and white small ones, for both Mom and Rosie. 

The streets were so busy. The shops were a collection of clothing, music, cafes, fruits, towels  jewelry and all other items that were eye candy for shopping. I tried to escape temptation. Various fruit stalls lined up along the streets, offering a range of orange, pineapple and promeganate juice. The latter which I found out was something typical in Tur

The streets slowly got wider and the shops were more Western when I got to

Protesters

Independence Avenue. As I reached the end of the small alleyway, a group of people were shouting something I didnt understand. Banners for the demonsration were afloat and police trucks with armed men surrounded the group. I later on learned that these were the plant owners of sugar plantations, asking the government of Erdogan to stop his plans of selling. It quite scared me seeing a brigade of police, knowing the street I was on was leading to Taksim Square, where both peaceful but also riot filled demonstrations took place. I stopped for a while and allowed the group pass by. 

Buskers

Local buskers found their spots in each of the corners of the main shopping strip. One with girls playing the violin and on the other side, a group of 3 men singing Turkish songs with a guitar. How I wished I understood what they were singing.

I continued on.

Crossing Galata Bridge

S6shot- Europe side view from bridge
Sinker caught in the wire

The clouds were dramatic, as it poured rain over the Golden Horn. I survived crossing the street and walking towards the ferry ports. Before the trip, I was considering catching the ferry but the weather wasnt on my side this time. The hours spent crossing the bridge was one of my memorable moments in Istanbul.

The Galata Bridge was supposed to be designed by Leonardo Da Vinci during the Ottoman reign. But what he produced didnt satisfy Sultan Bayezid II. Another great artist, Michelangelo waz requested to design a bridge over the Golden Horn but he declined. It was only by 1994 that the current one was built. A location to bridge Karakoy and Eminonu.

I reached Eminonu Kadikoy Iskelesi and watched the fishermen from afar...them seriously watching if their rods showed signs of a twitch.. catch of the day. With the rain drenching me wet, I decided to follow the path under the bridge. 

Numerous restaurants offering seafood menus were enticing. Heaps of tour groups

S6shot- Galata Tower and Bridge, view from Eminonu

were booked as I peeked from the outside. It was already 2 pm and I started feeling my stomach growl. For the past few months, my craving for seafood has took reign of my palette. This was the right place to have lunch. At some point, I found myself laughing when the line of a fisherman went straight for the wire below, with its sinker wrapping around it..instead of hitting the water. After a few minutes, the owner was unknotting it. I almost told him how to throw a line properly.

A small alley way showed me a different view from the bridge. I quickly walked through and found that this side showed a better panoramic view of both the European and Asian side of Turkey. The wind was blowing and my nonwater proof jacket was getting wet. It was hard to take a photo from where I stood.

S6shot- Wooden
Handler

I chose one of the corner seafood restaurants with less people, called Ab-I Hayat. A family and 2 couples were the only ones inside. The owner ushered me to the corner, with the whole table to myself but with beautiful views of the colorful ferry boats. I looked at the menu and salivated with the fish options. The names were all familiar ranging from sea brim, sea bass, sardines, trout, etc. I researched a few things before deciding which one to go for. I ended up choosing sea bass. One of our favourites back in NZ. 

I quietly had my lunch and couldnt help give a happy sigh. It all felt right. I was where I was supposed to be. I know I always appreciate places I go to. But there are times when my senses amd emotions are heightened. Its been a while since Ive traveled by myself. And the timing of this one was just perfect. It was time to revisit Me. Enough of the dramas of the year that was.

The sea bass was lovely. Fresh and juicy inside out. I didnt eat any bread, something I have taken out of my diet for quite some time now. I ate the fish to the bone... thinking my sisters would have loved it. 

The restaurant slowly became smokey. Groups of men smoking their shisha pipes surrounded me. Smoking shisha inside pubs and restos was allowed around Turkey. But signs of No Smoking were abundant around. I found it ironic. 

The rain mellowed down. I headed upstairs and quickly chatted with some of the fishermen. It was interesting how they handled multiple rods. There were handmade wooden holders to keep them stable whilst the owner walked around. I took a few photos and headed to Galata tower.

Sultanahmet - Part II

Basilica Cistern

I quickly found my way through Sultanahmet square. The clouds still lingered around. The Basilica Cistern was just across Hagia Sofia. The line wasnt that long to my delight. The entry fee was 20 Liras and as far as I remember wasnt included in the Museum Pass.

The cistern was built in the 6th century and served as a water filtration system for the Palace of Constantinople and even provided water to Topkapi Palace in 1453. This is the largest in Istanbul. 

The walk down the stairs gave a top view of the Cistern. I was glad I decided to change footwear. The floors were slippery for my old worn out shoes. Yes, mention of shoewear has been important for me. Later on to be more realized on my Cappadocia trip. 

It was dark and dim lights served as guide through the corridor elevated from the actual ground. Selfie sticks kept on hitting my head. I womder if that was an indication of my height or worse,  my seemingly non- existence. I just let them be. At the corner, a small setup for costume photography served as the booth for people who wanted to wear Turkish traditional clothing. I passed through the crowd and followed the viewing platform.

It was impressive that part of the cistern still remained, a structure that was dated back from Emperor Justinian I. There was still evidence of water although I wasnt sure if ot was clean enough. There were sections with displays, which I read through. Towards the middle of the cistern was a sort of wishing area were shimmering from the water below. 

The columns of Medusa were quite interesting. Greek mythology back when we were young told stories of this woman with snake hair that turned people to stone. The face was noticeable at the base. It was creepy staring at her hollowed eyes..wondering where all of these myths originate from. 

I fimished the walk in less than an hour. Walking up for fresh air as I exited the cistern, led me to the tramline close to Topkapi Palace. 

Surrounds of Topkapi

The Topkapi Palace (Cannon Gate) was built during the 15th century Ottomans reign. It served as the home of Sultans during their regime and also location for admin offices. It was added to the UNESCO Heritage list in 1985. This now serves as a museum. 

I didnt opt for going inside, instead I just walked around the park. I was timing my afternoon, leaving enough hours to explore Beyoglu, in the Asian side. 

The tulips were lovely, ordained around the park. Being a Sunday, families and tourists alike walked along the pathway, where trees and carpets of tulips added beautiful colours to a grey and cloudy day. 

I eventually found the side street to Galata Bridge. It was raining cats and dogs. I was ready for the Asia side of Turkey.

Out and About in Sultanahmet (Old City) - Part 1

S6shot- The domes

I woke up way before the alarm clock. The 6 am wakeup call wasnt required at all. By 5:30 am the first call for prayer blasted from the speakers of the closeby mosque.

I went up to the 5th floor and found a girl gazing out the window at the quaint kitchen of the hotel. I quickly sussed out the rooftop views until I couldnt handle the cold. 

I had a quick chat with the girl and found out they were on their way back home to Germany from Ethiopia  just on a short pit stop in Istanbul. I asked about breakfast and was given a tip about the cute hippie stores around Galata tower. I definitely noted that down.

Reviews suggested to visit Hagia Sofia first thing in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds. Exactly what I planned for...early morning. So I decided to have dinner in close proximity.  I opted for the Turkish style of Continental breakfast.

HISTORY IN A NUTSHELL

Turkeys history is very rich. From Byzantines to Romans then Ottomans which eventually led to the Republic of Turkey. Ok..i think that was too much of a shortcut. What really made an impression to me was Ataturk himself. 

We grew up and got introduced to the terms Anatolia or also known as Asian Minor. Another which was Constantinople, the name of Turkey during times of Constantine the Great. So how are all of these connected? Thats for a separate writeup. 😊

EXPLORING HAGIA SOFIA

S6shot- Virgin Mary with
Child Jesus

I lined up quarter to 9 am. There were already tout groups in the queue. Dark clouds were filling in the sky, I feared the rain but nothing I could do with the weather. I paid the entrance fee and hired an audio guide.

Hagia Sofia means "Holy Wisdom" in Latin but is also now called AyaSofya in Turkish. It was built during 534 AD, as instructed by Emperor Justinian I of the Byzantine empire. It served as a Christian Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Wisdom of God. 

In 1453, when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, AyaSofya was then converted to a mosque under the rule of Mehmed. As with all other churches during the Ottoman rule, a lot of  religious relics were destroyed and a few frescoes covered or were either erased or plastered over. The substantial change was the adding of the 4 minarets. This was kept as a mosque until 1931. By 1935 with the birth of The Republic of Turkey, AyaSofya was converted to a Museum (Müsezi). 

This was said to be the architecture that changed history. I do recall almost the same architecture around East Europe whilst my travels in 2013. Obviously, this served as an inspiration to the Ottomans during their reign of power. 

The structure that stands tall today wasnt the original one. The first simple creation in the 400s BC time was destroyed by a riot, which was once called Great Church. A second one was built but this was destroyed by fire during a revolt. 

By the 500s BC, Emperor Justinian I decided to build a better, bigger and stronger structure. It took years but the magnificence was an image of perfection during that period. Unfortunately earthquakes caused damages and required reconstructions and repair. 

S6shot- Deësis Mosaic
Virgin Mary and John the Baptist asking for
Jesus intercession during Judgement day

It was amazing to know that it was the Armenian architect Trdat, who also designed
the Cathedral of Ani, who was asked to direct the repairs. By the 900s BC, additions to the design are some of which you would now see, i.e. cherubims and Peter and Paul with Virgin Mary with the child Jesus in tne middle. 

The invasion and success of the Ottomans on the 29th of May, 1453 was the death of thousands of innocent people. Unimagineable acts of cruelty occured on the grounds of Hagia Sofia, which was served as their refuge until the Ottoman army barged in to claim their rule.

S6shot- wishing hole

S6shot- The Beautiful door

Before I flew in to Istanbul, it was said on the news that Erdogan recited Islamic prayers at Hagia Sofia much to the dismay of Greece but appraisal of Muslim Turks. My thinking? Why cant they just keep it neutral. If you think about it, the real descendants were not Turks anyway. Instead of fighting why not just keep things peaceful? To this day I still do not understand rage and wars among religions. I think its really a war of "man" and need for control. 

I explored the grounds of this magnificent structure and couldnt help but be humbled by the grandeur of its architecture. It was a shame that half of the main hall was covered due to maintenance. A few stray cats loitered around the grounds. One which caught my eye since it wanted to go up a set of stairs, instead looked up, shrieked to empty space as if it saw a ghost then ran away. Im sure with the history of the place, souls linger these grounds endlessly.

As I approached the West Wing, I finally found the wishing hole. Also known by the different names, but I chose it to be the wishing one. I put my tuumb in and tried as hard as I can to rotate my hand clockwise and complete a turn. I made a wish. They say it can heal illnesses. I touched my heart.

I exited through the Beautiful Door, the only genuine known piece of proof from 2th century BC, from the Hellenestic temple of Tarsus and placed there by Emperor Theophilos. Sheer admiration for the existence of this bronze door.

The Columbus clouds covered Istanbul and rain started pouring. I quickly ran to the souvenir store, kept myself warm and checked their items. I came out with a magnet and 15 postcards. Typical of me. As much as I wanted to get myself coasters, it was just too early to be collecting weight.
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I decided to go back to the hotel and change footwear. My worn out Nike sneakers didnt have much traction and I felt my feet slipping from time to time. On the way, I stopped at the corner coffee shop with a view of Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Ironically, I ordered Bhaklava with ice cream despite the freezing weather. My numb fingers trembled as I slowly wrote on the postcards. There was no way I was going to finish all of the ice cream. Eek!!

I knocked at the front door of the Inn hotel and they were surprised I was back early. I pointed at my shoes and quickly ran upstairs. I changed to my sturdy hiking North Face boots which I had with me during Nomad Enroutd in 2013. Wear and tear did not make me doubt its reliability. I had the right ankle support I needed.

On the way down I bumped into the cleaning lady and she gave me a warm smile. I was trying to make a hijab out of my scarf but was doing a bad job with it. She laughed and helped me set it up better around my face. By 1 pm, I was back on my way to Sultanahmet square. Next stop, Basilica Cistern.

My First Night in Istanbul

I went out around sunset time. I could hear prayers from the mosque (camii). Famished and weak, I was craving for proper food. Airplane meals never really gave me comfort.

I walked along Small Ayasofya street and savoured the chill air. The traffic was still

S6shot- Hagia Sofia

chaotic and honking horns still filled the air. I found the closest Restaurant and had early dinner there. I was taken to the rooftop where there were views. The guy asked my background and kissed my hand. Years ago Id be flattered. Now adays those moves just wouldnt work for me. I happily finished my steak in the silence of the setting Istanbul sun. The guy was trying to offer me a massage under the stars. I wondered if that was the typical line if they saw a solo female traveler. I politely smiled and declined. The chill of the night was slowly creeping in. 

S6shot- Arasta Bazaar

I found myself walking through the Arasta Bazaar, a collection of spices, clothing, jewelery and various Turkish items. The stone cobbled alley was adorned with etched stones that ordained the drainage system. Artsy, I must say. 

Towards Sultanahmet square, the towering Blue Mosque towered from a distance. Ive seen a couple of photos online, showcasing the beauty of artistry inside. I walked around the perimeter and observed the crowd. Lots of locals and tourists were admiring the facade as much as I was. The blooming tulips added a stunning contrast to the gray backdrop. 

Unfortunately, the mosque was closed for refurbishing. Yet to be opened on the 15th
of May. Just my luck. Lol. I walked around the washing area instead. Still a functioning mosque, the once constructed Sultan Ahmet mosque still offered a lot even from outside. 

I continued on and found myself across the Square and staring at Hagia Sofia from a distance. I admit I wasnt that much impressed by the architecture looking from the outside. But I was well aware of the history... yet to be discovered and explored the following day. 

The jetlag was slowly creeping in and my cramps was starting to bother me. I dedcided to head back to the Hotel. 

On the way, a small unnoticeable cafe caught my eye. Its always those small local

S6shot- Baho of Turkish Street Cafe
And his street art

places that I go for. The Turkish Street Cafe along Gelinik Sokagi was owned by Baho.

S6shot- Black Tea

I sat inside and appreciated the hanging shisha pipes as I sipped my black Turkish tea. As you know, Turkey holds the record of the most tea consuming country. Baho gave me free Turkish delight and asked me where I was from. Street art across his cafe was his own work of art, as he explained. I took a photo and told him ill be back. 

I took a hot shower, planned for thr next day and got lullabied by the last prayers from the nearby mosque.

Merhaba (Hello) Istanbul

We landed at Sabiha Gocken International airport at 1 pm. We were on the Asian side of Turkey. 

I wasnt sure what to expect really. Reviews and writeups all raved about how stunning Istanbul was. But feedback about taxi drivers seemed to be consistent. I just hoped my first encounter would be a good one. 

Emre couldnt speak much English but we managed to understand each other. I made sure I knew where the taxi meter was and watched it like a hawk. I was impressed with his driving skills whilst setting up google maps. I slowly eased up when he showed me the route and the travel time. 

The surrounds gave me the impression of growth. A lot of constructions were underway. Lush green meadows gave signs of early Spring. But I could still feel the cold. 

Emre was speeding at 120 kph and without his seat belt on... I was loving the speed...but not the instant breaks. Ive been warned about Istanbul driving. I just didnt know how it was compared to Manila.

As we approached the Old City, Sultanahmet.. i smiled. I could see the usual hustle and bustle of the city scapes. We passed through Galata Bridge.

S6 shot - Galata Bridge fishermen

I was mesmerized by the number of men with fishing rods. Emre tried to explain to me it was a Saturday. Not really the best time to drive around, so best to walk or tram it. Yes, we kind of understood each other. I had a pre downloaded app to learn a few Turkish words. And we agreed that Cumartesi (Saturdays) means traffic. He was happy when i learned how to count from 1 to 10 in Turkish. 

S6 shot - old city wall ruins

He dropped me off after an hour and a half. That was 200 Tliras. I reckon it was fair. Besides, it was traffic. That was inclusive of a 25 TL tip. 

I was received warmly by the front desk of Sultanahmet Inn Hotel (Akburçak Sk). He carried my bag to the 4th floor and I settled in. I was dead tired. But it was just 3 pm. I looked out of the window and could see the Küçük Ayasofya (little hagia sofia). I went up the rooftop and gazed around, sussed out the  surrounds. 

I unpacked a few things and decided to beat the jetlag by exploring.

Turkey

It wasnt really part of the plan. Yes, included in my bucket list since 2006...but not part of my 2018 travel plans. It was supposed to be Cuba. But as you know, some plans cease to exist, thus the opprtunity for a better option....now in hindsight, worked out to be the best one.

For some reason Turkey came to mind just when Cuba plans were cancelled. I was aware of the Syria unrest but an Expedition to the Black Sea and Beyond via Intrepid was so enticing to ignore.

With a lil bit of hesitation, i booked Turkey.
The route - Istanbul - trabzon - kars - erzurum - dogubayazit - van - istanbul.
At the time of booking, both Istanbul and Van were on high alert and travel advisories suggested to avoid those locations.

This was going to be my first time to fly with strangers. I thought.... what was the worse that could happen. 😁

I wrote a scroll and left it with Gab and Rem. In any case if something happened to me... it would serve as my eulogy.

I took out my Nomad Enroute backpack.... its been a while. Last trip with this one was 2014. It was time. I started reading about Mustafa Ataturk, the Father of Turks.

On the 6th of April.. Brian carried my backpack and walked me to the train station.

By 10 pm, i was on my way to Turkey (via Doha).

I boarded the plane and watched Murder on the Express...which apparently started from Istanbul. Got me more excited.

Sandwiched in the middle row, i tried to get some sleep.